Our utility publishes their water report (2022, 2023 isn't out yet):

https://www.amwater.com/ccr/stlouisregion.pdf

Actual data starts at page 15.

I have a basic understanding of water chemistry from home brewing beer, but in the past I always sent out samples to Ward Labs to get water results, as most at home testing kits rely on droppers of colored liquid and I'm colorblind.

I'm currently using water I mix from distilled by the gallon into a reservoir machine, but in the not too distant future I'm planning on upgrading to a machine capable of being plumbed-in. What kind of filtration/softening setup would I need for this, knowing that doing frequent and regular tests would be difficult for me, unless someone knows of a test kit that doesn't rely on color differentiation? I'd like to avoid mixing water from distilled in the future if at all possible.

The only problem I see that might force you to use RO rather than ion exchange resin filters is chloride level. It's not too bad (though by no means ideal) if you are guaranteed to get water exclusively from the Missouri River facility (range 18-21ppm) but would definitely be a problem if you are getting water from the Meramec River (range 33-43).

I agree with Nick (Pressino) that you have a borderline chloride issue. Given the numbers, and calculating a typical mix of 80% Missouri + 20% Meramac water you're looking at 21 - 26 mg/L chloride ion in that water. If you are extra cautious and plan to keep the machine for many years then it might be advisable to go with RO to remove that chloride. Synesso would recommend this whenever your chloride is above 15 mg/L. La Marzocco USA would say you are OK if the chloride is below 30 mg/L. It's kind of a fuzzy decision - - any chloride may be a corrosion risk, especially to copper and brass but also stainless steel. (See Chloride in Water - Recommended Acceptable Ranges ).

Your total hardness, at 76 - 180 ppm as CaCO3 is pretty high, although it's unusual in that most of it is magnesium rather than calcium hardness. Your calcium hardness is only around 55 ppm as CaCO3. (Your utilities use lime softening, which is effective in dropping the calcium hardness). They don't provide numbers for alkalinity, which you would need to calculate limescale risk. But it's safe to assume that this water will cause limescale accumulations and would need periodic descaling if you don't soften the water.

If you do soften the water it would be best in my opinion to stick with a conventional softener that exchanges sodium or potassium for hardness minerals and does not reduce the alkalinity. (Decarbonizing filters, like the BWT Bestmax or the Everpure Claris Ultra are not conventional softeners - - They use ion exchange resins that release H+ ions rather than Na+ or K+ ions, and they do reduce alkalinity and acidify the water.) Keeping your alkalinity moderately high should help reduce the corrosion risk from your chloride ion.

You could use a generic 10" system with two filters. One to filter particles, off-tastes, and chloramine and the second with a conventional softening resin to reduce hardness. You can get filters (often called 'catalytic carbon') that are optimized for chloramine. Or you could use a system that combines both charcoal filtration and conventional softening in one cartridge like the Homeland HWCS.

Or ...
You could keep doing what you're doing and mix your water in a large carboy and plumb that to the machine: Espresso Cart - Goodbye Plumbed In

I provided the Missouri American Water report because the one for my actual municipality is far less detailed:

https://www.kirkwoodmo.org/home/showpub ... 2914630000

But! It does state that the water purchased by my municipality from Missouri American Water is solely from the Missouri River.

My intent is to purchase a Linea Micra which I'd like to have a very long time, so I'm trying to start off right and get this sorted out before I get it.

Am I correct in assuming that there is not really a solution for plumbing this in and having non-scaling water? I don't have a great place to store a carboy near my machine.

It's a very good thing that your water comes from the Missouri River rather than the Meramec, since that means you could get away without using reverse osmosis. You will just need a traditional ion exchange softener, which will not reduce your water's alkalinity, as Pat explains above.

Will I need to plan on regular descaling?

achosid wrote:Will I need to plan on regular descaling?

If you use a conventional ion exchange softener and replace it at the recommended intervals it will drop your hardness very low, down to non-scaling levels even if the alkalinity is moderately high, so you should not need to descale. If you use the steam wand regularly you will still need to take steps to periodically flush or drain the steam boiler, which is easily done: Using hot water tap to manage steam boiler water concentration .

If you use a decarbonizer and get your bypass set right, and also replace it at the recommended intervals, it should also be able to give you non-scaling water. Decarbonizers are sometimes referred to as Hydrogen exchange softeners, sometimes as WAC resin softeners. They most often come with an adjustable bypass head. Decarbonizers include the Mavea/Brita/Vivreau Purity/Quell ST filters, the BWT Bestmax, The Everpure Claris, the 3M/Cuno PS124. The Everpure ESO7 is a decarbonizer but uses a 20% fixed bypass head. Decarbonizers reduce both the hardness and the alkalinity, and also lower the pH somewhat and all three of these factors work together to reduce your limescale risk.

You have unknown alkalinity, and a little chloride in the water so I think I'd stick with the conventional softener approach. If you get a decarbonizing filter you will want to know your alkalinity number.

You might get your alkalinity number by contacting your water utility. Or use an inexpensive KH drop titration kit, perhaps with some assistance with the color change. Or send a sample for analysis.

P.S.
What's your experience with Ward Labs? It looks like a reasonably priced analysis for coffee water. If recommended you might want to weigh in with a post here: Water testing service? .

homeburrero wrote:You might get your alkalinity number by contacting your water utility. Or use an inexpensive KH drop titration kit, perhaps with some assistance with the color change. Or send a sample for analysis.

I have a pH meter and the appropriate buffer solutions for it at home (along with a TDS meter) from my days as a home brewer. I'm away on vacation currently (hence the slow response) but I'll pull a pH reading when I get home this coming weekend.

homeburrero wrote:What's your experience with Ward Labs? It looks like a reasonably priced analysis for coffee water. If recommended you might want to weigh in with a post here: Water testing service? .

I had super positive results with Ward Labs. Back when I was home brewing, they were the go-to provider for detailed home testing. Here's a screenshot of the most recent report I have from them (2017, so not super applicable to my current water, though it's in the same general part of town):



The notes reference that they received it on 4/10/17 and tested it and sent me the results on 4/11/17, so they acted quick. I have strongly considered sending a sample out to them just to get a baseline again before I run down this coffee project, but probably closer to when I buy my Linea Micra this coming spring.

Lastly, do you have any recommendations for a conventional ion exchanger softener setup?

Thanks for the feedback on Ward Labs. I'll probably add a link to your post above to that other thread about recommended testing labs.

One single cartridge system that seems popular and sold by some espresso equipment vendors is the Homeland HWCS. (Here's one example from Clive coffee: https://clivecoffee.com/products/water- ... ion-system.) It's a straightforward 1700 grain sodium ion exchange softener coupled with carbon and particulates filters. At a 150 ppm hardness level like yours (8.8 gpg) it would treat 190 gallons of water before the resin is depleted.

The Cuno/3M PS124 (like this: https://www.espressocare.com/products/i ... remium-kit ) is another popular single cartridge system that does conventional sodium exchange softening along with particulates and charcoal filtration.

Another simple, robust, and flexible option would be the two filter generic solution like the one sold at CCS: https://www.chriscoffee.com/collections ... ion-system. With that one you aren't locked in and can choose filter replacements from a large variety of filters.

homeburrero wrote:You have unknown alkalinity, and a little chloride in the water so I think I'd stick with the conventional softener approach. If you get a decarbonizing filter you will want to know your alkalinity number.

I was able to test my pH at home: 9.65. Does this alter your recommendation as to whether I should stick with conventional softening or consider a decarbonization tactic?