North Texas Water and Possible Solutions (RO + Remineralizer) - Page 2

Water analysis, treatment, and mineral recipes for optimum taste and equipment health.
pumpkinscastle (original poster)
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#11: Post by pumpkinscastle (original poster) »

I really like the simplicity of that H75+ system. And at $600 not a bad price at all.

My Homemaster system already shipped, so I am going to try it.
I assume I could always tie in a blending valve like this to mix in small amounts of pre-RO water if I wanted to increase TDS, but that would also reintroduce chlorides. Also, not sure if non magnesium and non calcium based alkalinity would help much with taste. I am going to experiment with the Corosex cartridge first. In fact, if successful, a small needle valve might be a good option to control it and avoid a "hardness bubble". ... 121&sr=8-1

Found this video of someone installing a DIY blending valve (seemingly very similar to the one in the Amazon link above) with good results:

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#12: Post by Ciaran »

I have two observations about the video above.

First, this illustrates the issues when using a tankless RO. Maybe he's intending to install a tank, or maybe it's just not in the video for demonstration purposes.

Second, he's using an HM Digital TDS3 Salinity meter. Not a good choice to use when setting a blend as it reads 30% less than actual TDS.

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#13: Post by RistrettoCapp »

Living in North Texas, about an 1 hr North of DFW, we have very hard water. I don't recall the water report we originally looked at but I know our TDS was over 800 !!!, and it was also high in calcium. Our fix was to put in a conventional system (dgd-2501 25 to 1 micron particulate filter, with 20x4.5 carbon filters) ahead of an RO system (an iSpring RCC100P, 100 gpd system we got off Amazon for under $400 and added a remineralization cartridge to with blending valve).

An added benefit was that water to the house is now also filtered (showers, etc).

We tried an RO without the tank but it was just too low of a flow rate to work... This one works great and I added a faucet at the sink for drinks, teas, etc.

Overall this has kept our espresso and coffee equipment on great shape.

Looking forward to hearing how your experience works and what you end up going with.

Also, what is your plan with the old e61 machine??

pumpkinscastle (original poster)
Posts: 219
Joined: 14 years ago

#14: Post by pumpkinscastle (original poster) »

I installed the Homemaster and have had really good success by and large. At the tail end of this system I also installed another remineraliztion cartridge (Omnipure 70/30 calcite/corosex) and a beefy traditional carbon filter in a 10 in housing for polishing the water one more time before it goes to the machine and fresh water tap.
Water enters the system at 620 ppm, leaves the RO membrane at low single digits ppm and, after remineralization, gets to the machine at 37-40 ppm with a pH value of 8.2. It also tastes pretty good. My espresso has definitely more clarity and definition now.

Now, the downside is that my water mains has 55 psi of pressure, and that the RO system's automatic shutoff valve closes at around 60% of that. In practice that means that available pressure going into the machine varies from 36 psi (when the ASV turns the RO system off) to 14 psi (when it turns it back on). I feel that especially the lower end is a tad too low, really. My fear is that the pump might be forced into slight cavitation, but I am not sure.

I have three ways to remedy that (as far as I can tell):
1.) Install a ASV that promises to reach 80+% of lines pressure. I bought this off Amazon and haven't put it in yet. I hope it will solve my issues, but reviews are mixed. ... =1&ref&tag

2.) Remove the ASV completely and have the RO system's permeate pump shut off when lines pressure is reached on the tank side. This might possibly lead to water waste and TDS creep?

3.) Install a booster pump on the supply side, so that instead of 55 psi, the RO system sees 70-80 psi and will then automatically create higher pressure on the tank side, equivalent to 60% of the incoming lines pressure.

We will see how it will play out. Slayer recommends between 3 and 5 bar of inlet pressure, hence my concern, especially with the current low range of my system.

I plan on rebuilding my E61 Vetrano and keeping it as a backup or demonstration/teaching tool that I can keep in my office or around the house. I don't think I would get much for it at age 16, and the ability to have backup espresso when needed is important to me. I'd hate to be without it.

pumpkinscastle (original poster)
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#15: Post by pumpkinscastle (original poster) »

Well, the automatic shutoff valve that promised up to 90% of line pressure on the tank side, did absolutely NOTHING to raise the pressure. It performs identically to the one that was in my system and that is rated to shut off at 60% of line pressure. Folks, save yourselves the expense, should you stumble on it: ... =1&ref&tag

I ended up buying an Aquatec 6800 pump with the 60 psi pressure switch and the electric solenoid shutoff valve. Currently configuring this setup, so that it will turn off at around 3.5 bar and come on when pressure falls below 3. I haven't explored the pressure switch's adjustment screw enough to learn what the dead band between the switch points is, but will attempt to find the sweet spot.
What I don't like is that the pump, despite being cushioned and hooked up to plastic tubing, sends enough vibrations through my copper plumbing system (which tends to amplify noise), so that it is audible throughout the house when running. Other than that, this setup creates ample pressure for my needs.

Thanks again, especially to Pat, for chiming in on this thread with your advice and expertise.