Possible Quickmill Anita temperature problem - Page 2

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GC7 (original poster)
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Joined: 16 years ago

#11: Post by GC7 (original poster) »

I'd like to update my problems with the QM Anita as I described above so others might diagnose potential problems with their machine.

It turns out that I had two distinct and different malfunctions.

The problem with the grouphead temperature being lower and drink brew temperatures being too cool especially on second and third attempts after an initial one when the group was hot turned out to be a PID tuning problem. I had never actually stood by my machine and followed its heating progress from a cool start. I have a PID'ed boiler from Dave at Hitechespresso and typically set it at 250* F resulting in about 1.1-1.15 bar and 213* F or so grouphead temperature on EricS's probe. Well, after nine months of use I discovered that on heating from a cool machine it would go all the way up to 265* F and as much as 1.55 bar into the red. I have a time course of this and it slowly went down to proper 250* temperature but fluctuated more then I initially ever recall the PID readings doing before. Dave suggested an automatic retuning of the PID which I did using his instructions. Low and behold the temperatures behave as they should. I don't know how the PID became so lax in temperature response but it was easily solved.

The other problem of the pump running without shutoff and recycling VERY HOT water to the reservoir tank was not a problem with scale or the OPV valve. For this solution I would like to give my gratitude and heartfelt thanks to Eric Svendson who is an incredible resource for this community and who gives his time and spare parts in a most generous manner. Eric had me isolate the two water lines leading to the reservoir from either the priming valve line or the OPV line using tubing and connectors that I luckily had in my lab at work. Recreating the problem where the pump continued to try to fill the boiler after removing some H2O from the tank showed/proved that H2O was flowing through the OPV and at exactly brewing pressure. The only way for that to happen according to Eric was if the boiler refill valve or solenoid was defective and preventing entry into the boiler. This is an intermittent non-actuation of the boiler fill valve on my machine and after switching the power to the machine on and off several times while allowing it to cool a bit the boiler refill functions properly.

Eric provided me with a complete photo and arrow documented idiots guide to replacing the solenoid which he also by the way mailed me a spare he happened to have around. How nice is that! I have not yet proven that I am an idiot by actually showing I am capable of replacing the solenoid :? but I am confident that this will solve my second problem. Apparently this is not an uncommon problem with the QM Anita and Chris Coffee even sells a new and upgraded valve/solenoid as a replacement but that is a bit trickier to install.

Many thanks to a great coffee community that even makes problems educational. I have a hugely increased knowledge of how my machine functions and how to take care of it from opening up my Anita and working with her in a productive way - thanks to Eric.

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CRCasey
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#12: Post by CRCasey »

Might I suggest (given EricS permission) that you post the former mentioned online?

-Cecil
Black as the devil, hot as hell, pure as an angel, sweet as love-CMdT, LMWDP#244

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GC7 (original poster)
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#13: Post by GC7 (original poster) »

I just got around to replacing the boiler-fill solenoid as per Eric's detailed instructions and my (second) problem is solved.

For those with QM Anita's (or perhaps even other QM machines?) if you see symptoms as I described you likely have the same problem.

Here are Eric's instructions.

It is a PITA to replace the entire valve because of working clearance in and around the valve and the fact that QM uses a thread sealant on the fittings screwed into the solenoid valve body.

So, the idea is to replace just the upper half as that is the problem part anyway. With the machine cold, unplugged and undressed:

a. syphon water out of the boiler after removing the copper tubing to the hot water spigot (tilt machine as necessary)
b. remove solenoid coil - keep wires attached or not
c. put some paper towels below valve
d. remove upper half of valve using a 17 mm deep socket (preferably a 6 point socket)

The actual size is 21/32" but a 17 will work -

e. some water will probably leak out of the 1 mm center hole in the valve body (paper towels)
f. Install replacement upper half with NO SEALER - the teflon washer does all the sealing
g. replace solenoid coil - just snug the nut - don't crank down hard
h. replace hot water tubing

TEMPORARILY disconnect one of the heating element leads
Plug her in and boiler will autofill.
UNPLUG machine, reconnect heating element.

She should be good to go.

Photos by Eric available if necessary.

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erics
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#14: Post by erics »

The problem that Geoffrey experienced (and that I experienced a year or so prior) was that the boiler fill solenoid was "sticky" and would not open when a "fill signal" was sent. This would shown by the brew pressure gage easily hitting 8.5 to 9.0 bar when the pump gets activated with the brew lever in the down position. Under these conditions, there is no flow through the group and no flow through the boiler fill valve (stuck closed) - hence the brew gage reads typical blind filter pressures.

While there's probably several ways to get water out of the boiler, an easy (but a litttle long) method is to syphon the water out through the hot water connection on the boiler. This drains the boiler almost bone dry. The nuts and 6 mm tubing you need to remove are shown in the pic below:

The next pic is that of the water tube which extends into the boiler and through which you will insert some 3/16" OD syphon tubing. Other than my pic, you won't see this tube as it remains inside the boiler and does a beautiful job of supporting the syphon tubing.

The next pic shows the fill solenoid valve with the "sticky" valve assembly removed. Remove the upper half of the valve with a deep 17 mm 6 point socket. Other tools can surely be substituted but this lessens the chances of rounding off some brass corners.

Water to fill the boiler flows through the small hole in the center of the body and out the body as shown by the arrow. The inlet to the valve is marked by a "1" and the outlet by a "2".
Skål,

Eric S.
http://users.rcn.com/erics/
E-mail: erics at rcn dot com

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