Bluenoser wrote:I've just had my Profitec Pro 500 PID for about 3 weeks. And from all the literature it does not require cooling flushes (unless on for really long time). From my brief experience, that does seem to be true. I don't get flashing water, and shots taste pretty consistent. But I'm trying to determine if my brew water is really near 200F and am not sure how to do it.
Profitec's manual doesn't seem to be accurate for setting the PID and getting an ideal brew temp (as found by WLL and even in my crude temp measurements). I was hoping that I could simply set the PID to some setting, and since this beast doesn't really need cooling flushes, use a small foam cup with good quality thermometer stuck through the cup side to measure the initial brew water and I was thinking it should give me a measurement close to the 200F that I want. But I can set the PID up as high as 256F (Profitec says I should set to 248F) and the initial water temp in the foam cup is only about 188F when I pull about 2 oz. (the cup is only 1.5 inch high and held tightly against group head with no drain hole.. I flip lever to get about 2 oz in cup and look at max temp on probe.. probe is preheated to close to 180F so that not an issue) So maybe this is because the water exits too quickly; not under pressure (9Bar). Maybe under a 'real' extraction the water would be hotter. .. (but I thought I'd get much better results for the initial temp of the brew water)
If I get an EricS Therm, what technique might I use on a Pro 500 PID that should not require any cooling flush?
If I just pull the shot, how would I know if EricS reading is above or below the brewWater temp?
I'm pretty new at this.. and not exactly sure the dynamics of how the thermometer would work in a setting where one does not flush.
(sure wish I had access to a scace)
I guess I'm doing this just to verify to myself that the thermosiphon system is all working as it should be.
The PID machine is slightly different than the non PID. I found for me for my shot of espresso and a 5 minute recovery time meant i needed the boiler to be set to 1.2max (1.0-1.2 Max).
With the PID machine you maybe able to get away with being a bit less than 1.2 as there is no swing of pressure/temp combo.
As for eric's thermometer i seem to find best results by:
- heatup for 45-60mins.
- quick flush stop the garbling and then prep shot, approx 5 mins.
- flush the machine until i get 203F on erics and pull the shot within 30 seconds.
- usually starts at around 201.5-202F and ends around 196sih. (My assumption is the temp is 3F higher at puck)
I think the PID machine everything will change, but the flavour will tell you when and how much to flush and how much you wanna set your pid too.
Unfortunately this is something you will need to play with to get a decent cup out of the machine.
What is the quality of your espresso?
Read your reply to eric's post.
I think the thermometer just gives you a bit of insight on what the temperature would be, and it only measures accurately when water is passing through the chamber.
If you shot after shot is very consistent then i wouldn't worry about the temperature too much when idle, i would worry about temperature while you are pulling the shot (start to end) which will give you an idea of what is happening.