Tips For Safe Use of LP/Gas Roasters In a Residential Setting - Page 3

Discuss roast levels and profiles for espresso, equipment for roasting coffee.
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hipporun
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#21: Post by hipporun »

keno wrote:Not to further confuse this issue, but my understanding is that white tape and yellow tape for gas are the same material: Teflon. Teflon is essentially chemically inert and so neither will react with gas or pose any issue in that regard.

Aside from the color the yellow tape is thicker which makes it less likely to shred. The problem with the thin white tape is that it shreds very easily and these pieces can clog small gas orifices if it gets in the pipe. If you can find a thick tape (color doesn't matter) it should be fine for gas.
On the topic of Teflon tape use, I have a small tip-

Wrap the Teflon tape in the same direction the female adapter twists while tightening. This will help prevent shredding/loosening of the tape that may comprise the seal or lead to clogging.

alphawave7
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#22: Post by alphawave7 »

Thin tape is best, it allows you to stretch the tape even thinner and tight to begin your wrap, which should be done at the BASE of your nipple. I secure the tape with a finger and give it a good stretch, bring it around to allow the next turn to grab and hold tight then turn the tape as many turns to my desired thickness at the base and gradually progress to the nipple's end. For example, 5 turns might give approx. 3 layers at the base, 2-3 layers in the middle and 1-2 layers at the end. You can be as uniform or as tapered as you wish depending on the threads but too thick, especially at base is counterproductive and can result in a improper seal. If you see the tape at the base move or rotate during tightening, you've lost good seal. Sometimes testing the fitment with no tape will tell you how much you should apply. As already mentioned, twist in the direction of the female fitting.

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JK
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#23: Post by JK »

When I was 18 I worked for a Teflon Manufacture, Norton Chemplast..
They make a 6' long Teflon cylinders and press it on a steel shaft and it is placed in a large slow turning lathe..
They use a 6' long blade to peel (Skive) off a slice .003" to .006" thick by 6' long peel..
There are dozens of razor blades between the lathe and take up spools that slice the 6' sheet into 1/2" wide ribbons and they are wound into master rolls.. The rolls are mounted in a machine that winds tape from the master roll onto small plastic spools that you buy in stores..

Thin or thick it just depends how many wraps you use or the diameter of the pipe you use it on..

For Gas Pipe, DOPE (paste) is best as it hardens and makes a better seal..
http://www.amazon.com/Rectorseal-25631- ... B001P5F9X2
This is pretty much the industrial standard..
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009P ... CW05KGFJ99
Small Size


http://www.fluoropolymers.org/news/chemplast.htm
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Chert
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#24: Post by Chert »

BEWARE!

There are some patio burners with a propane orifice screwed into a cast burner. The correct operation is for the gas to aerate in the chamber within the shaft of the burner. At the jets set in a ring of the actual burner, combustion takes place. The flames ride above the cast ring.

I learned this weekend that a dangerous location of combustion can also occur. The flame had yellow tip so I set to adjust air intake. That is when I noticed the jet within the shaft was aflame and the brass fittings attached there were too hot to touch. I decided that was not appropriate so I turned the gas off, and reignited. I remembered then that the initial ignition had popped briefly. If that flame had continued for too long I think the rubber gas hose might have been compromised.

Don't make that mistake.
LMWDP #198

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cuppajoe
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#25: Post by cuppajoe »

Here's a good read on 'teflon' tape. - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thread_seal_tape

Like most I too have been laboring under a misconception regarding pipe thread tape. Today's stuff isn't teflon, and it's meant to lubricate tapered thread fittings and joints, not act as a sealer. No wonder it has been less than successful for some of my applications...
David - LMWDP 448

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jmc
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#26: Post by jmc »

As the article explains Teflon is a brand name owned by DuPont who no longer manufacture plumbers tape from it.
But it is still made of the same material by other manufacturers.

It does seal if applied correctly.
From the article
The tape also works as a deformable filler, helping to seal the joint without hardening or making it more difficult to tighten,[3] and instead making it easier to tighten.[2]
John

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TomC (original poster)
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#27: Post by TomC (original poster) »

Re-opened by request.
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CarefreeBuzzBuzz
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#28: Post by CarefreeBuzzBuzz »

I am now focusing on Gas Safety for my North TJ066 500grm gas roaster that is on order.

I have a large garage - 1000 sq feet but no ventilation other than a 46x15" window or the side door. Of course there are two garage doors.

I intend to follow the guidelines from the original post.

The North has 2 burners and I will be using propane. I live in CO at 7750 feet.
The roaster will have a 3" stainless steel vent that will extend 3 feet past the window. Clearance will be provided by cement boards or bricks until we are sure this is where the permanent home will be and then we can go through the wall.

My basic question, assuming I have done all the leak checks and have the CO monitors in place, is it ok to move the propane in to roast? In that case I would use a 10 foot hose. Or should I get a longer hose, 30 feet) and leave the side door partially cracked open to run it.

Most of our days here in the winter are in the 40's except when it is snowing. This year we have only had two days of 1" each. Not much. Cracking the door would cause the garage to cool of some but it's probably manageable.

Thoughts? Other issues people see? (note the gas and paint seen will be moved after the roaster arrives)

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ira
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#29: Post by ira »

The concerns are leaks and fire. If the connection to the canister is not leaking and you make sure you can't trip over it than having the canister inside for an hour should not pose a problem. If you decide it's better to leave it outside, I'd consider making a hole through the wall near the roaster. A 6" or 8" PVC nipple of 2" or so pipe should let you cap both ends when not in use and open it up for roasting and then there is no hose across the floor to trip on. Or maybe a tiny window or door in the wall.

Ira

Tonefish
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#30: Post by Tonefish »

Recommended part: You are on a very safe path. A couple additional things I did were to put a sheet of SS (or any metal really -no Mg) behind the roaster on the wall, and I plumbed the roaster with an SS gas appliance hose to under the cart. That way it's all metal around the roaster (just trying to buy time to make things safe if the unexpected occurs.)

What else I did, but may not be worthy of recommendation: From under the cart I have a 10 foot rubber gas hose to the regulator and tank. I was originally cracking the door and putting the tank outside but I felt I'd rather have quicker access to the cutoff valve so I leave the tank just inside the door which is 6 ft or so from the roaster. Part of the problem with opening the door is that I vent through the open window in it. It is a steel door and I rigged a steel sheet to center the duct in the window. The ducting is all solid except for the last foot where I connect to the door fixture with flex (coolest part of the run). I have the thumb screw hose clamp for the quick and easy connection to the roaster so I can put away the solid duct path when I'm not roasting. There is also a hanger from the ceiling at mid-run to provide support. I've thought about cutting through the wall for the duct and the propane but I just don't think it would be that much better. I also use this setup to run my smoker indoors. Neither the CO nor smoke alarm trigger. Maybe I should have left this whole paragraph out, but if its fodder for safety discussions or just additional ideas then it may be useful.
Just thoughts ... YMMV.
LMWDP #581 .......... May your roasts, grinds, and pulls be the best!