TomC wrote:I didn't note that, and that's not the front of the drum, it's the rear of the drum. Putting holes near the front of the drum would likely cause a chaff fire or flare up in no time.

From my experience with cutting the slots in the outer shell near the front. I agree that drilling holes at the front of drum is most probably something you DO NOT want to do.

I tried one roast with only the slots nearest the front open to confirm my suspicion that the air would mostly bypass the rear of the drum and suck up through the tiny gaps in between drum and faceplate. Chaff was pulled through the perforations of the drum and a pile accumulated under the bottom / front of the drum, this started to smoulder and some embers made it through to the chaff collection basket.....

Thanks for the notice...I said that without properly inspecting the photos, but I am happy I asked questions before just doing it, otherwise I may have drilled in the front side by accident.

Has anyone explored temperature control of the incoming air? It seems to me most mods have been about preserving the heat in the chamber with insulation, or improving air flow inside the roasting drum with perforations around the back.

Another thread about another roaster talked about channeling incoming air more across hot surfaces on its way in (in that case it was about closing off intake ports to force a longer air travel route along hot surfaces inside the roaster).

In my case, I roast by a patio door cracked open. The cool draft pulls out the exhaust so I don't set off my smoke alarm. But that cool air probably goes up the intake as well.

If there was baffling around the back end of the roaster so the air had to be pulled across the bottom of the hot drum into the roaster, would that improve things?

If there was some kind of ducting option to redirect portions of hot exhausts back into the intake on demand, would that improve things? What risks might there be from such a set-up (moisture issues? particulate buildup issues)?

Good question. I have thought about it but the wimpy fan stops me from extending the intake air somewhere else.

So I have a semi-related question that I hope to get some enlightenment on.

My roaster is "off-keel" and slightly tilted to the side, and back a bit. I've tried bending the legs with limited luck. Should I just drop my ego and get a couple of wedges for use under the Quest?

Semi-related, I wanted to pick up some bits for use with a socket wrench for easier dis/reassembly. Can anyone point me to an appropriate product [description]? Many thanks.

Arpi and many others connected a hot air gun to the roaster (usually through the front bean trier orifice). That heat up the incoming air.

Zanderfy wrote:So I have a semi-related question that I hope to get some enlightenment on.

My roaster is "off-keel" and slightly tilted to the side, and back a bit. I've tried bending the legs with limited luck. Should I just drop my ego and get a couple of wedges for use under the Quest?

I straightened the roaster by looping a tie wrap around the leg and the bottom "slat" of the protection grid. (One tie for left and another for the right side. )

Thanks Assaf. Are those the plastic "zip-ties"? Are there any concerns of them melting?

They are nylon. The same ones for 3 years going or even more.

It is tied to the bottom rung or slat (is it rung or slat? My English is a bit etiolated). The drum is insulated though...

Heck, I took mine apart, put the "Frame" in a 5" bench vice and then used a large wrench to bend the legs into proper alignment. It took several tries and for the final bend into a more forward down position(ever so slightly) I put my entire weight on the roaster!