Quest M3 : Disassembling to swap heating elements - Page 2

Discuss roast levels and profiles for espresso, equipment for roasting coffee.
badperson (original poster)

#11: Post by badperson (original poster) »

Also, remove the cover from the electrical bay; it has the cooling fan on it; the fan wires plug into a little white connector with a spring-release tab.
does that require removing the three screws circled in red I showed above? I don't know if i can do that without totally disassembling the two halves of the roaster.

Or should I leave that plate on as is, and remove/replace the connections you described?

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#12: Post by Nunas »

badperson wrote:does that require removing the three screws circled in red I showed above? I don't know if i can do that without totally disassembling the two halves of the roaster. Or should I leave that plate on as is, and remove/replace the connections you described?
It's way easier than you might imagine. I believe you're over-thinking this. You do not have to separate the cabinet from the roasting chamber (which is darn near impossible without taking the whole thing to bits because of the way those backwards screws are situated). Let me have another go at explaining it.

Look at the roaster from the back, where the vent is. Notice that the metal cabinet has an apparent horizontal fold just below the vent. That's not actually a fold, but a seam where two pieces of metal overlap. The upper half is the chaff/fan chamber. The lower half is the electrical box. Look on the sides of that lower piece, and you'll see some small hex-head screws. If you remove them, that bottom piece of metal will come off, including the little fan attached to it. Don't pull too hard, as the fan has wires connected to the circuitry with a small connector. Press the tab on the connector and pull it off. You can now set that piece of metal aside. Look into the back of the roaster, and you will see the heavy wires connected to the four terminals of the heaters (two per heater); don't worry about any other wires, except to gently push them aside if necessary to get to the heater terminals. Undo the nuts on those terminals and release the wires. Now, the only thing holding the heaters in place is the four bolts that you can see from the front of the roaster, where you took off the front plate and pulled the drum out. If you undo those four bolts, the heaters will come right out. No need to take the whole roaster to bits! Reverse the process to install the replacement heaters, and you're good to go :D .

badperson (original poster)

#13: Post by badperson (original poster) »

Ok, I am finally....*finally* getting around to fixing this and I am almost done. I got the two new heating elements swapped in I *think/hope* I got the connections right and I am now trying to replace the drum and having a really hard time. This is from the handbook:
Take note of the drive slot on the drum and the drive pin on the drum motor axle. Slightly rotate
the drum while inserting it until the slot slides over the drive pin. When properly installed, the
entire drum, except for the axle, will be entirely within the roasting chamber, and the drum will
not turn freely
If you look at the picture I took on the first page, dated 3/27 at 3:52 pm, is the drive pin on the motor axle that little notch on the right on the inner part of the drum housing, or does it refer to that entire thing in the center that sticks out? Is there a technique for doing this? I get the drum in, it's about a 1/4 inch away from being flush with the rest of the housing. I try rotating the drum but it doesn't slide in...

I'm not sure if that's because I missed the shaft entirely or what...

Oh...and remove the connections to the heating elements wires, I used a 5.5 mm hex fitting, and for the screws holding in the elements on the inside of the drum I used 7mm fitting.


finally got it in, just had to slowly work it in and it finally locked into place...I just dropped my first batch since Januaray and I am totally OVERJOYED!!! :mrgreen: :twisted: :mrgreen:

I thought that during the pandemic I would be all over these types of projects but it was totally the opposite...anyway, totally happy to have this machine back in working order!
★ Helpful

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#14: Post by Nunas »

I'm glad it all worked out!


#15: Post by AndreG »

You could try Acetone (Nail Polish Remover) for the carbon build up. The Pharmaceuticals use it for cleaning there equipment.
It does work...


#16: Post by mwills »

Slightly OT here, but where are people sourcing the replacement elements? I've gotten them in the past directly from Molly but I am not getting a response from emails to


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#17: Post by Nunas »

Have you tried Coffee Shrub? Since they are the only dealer I know of in the US that carries the Quest, they might have spares. ... aster.html


#18: Post by mwills »

I had already contacted Coffeeshrub - they told me to contact Molly. Still no reply to my mails.

Anyone else able to source these elements? This will be my second replacement so I have to imagine others will need them as well.


#19: Post by Antonee »

Has anyone been able to get through to the Quest manufacturer? One of my elements just died and I am also in need of replacements.


#20: Post by Zanderfy » replying to Antonee »

No luck here; I messaged Molly two weeks ago to inquire about thermocouples and haven't heard anything back yet.