I give the unit to a good hand outside of OEM. Yes, since the OEM would not sell the PCB board to the end-user, so repair the PCB will be the only option currently. I will try to update more but it may take a long period of time. Meanwhile, regarding the root cause of the chip failure, I am pretty sure that was on me because I bought a new AC-DC power supply, resulting in it. Upon the wrong choice of power supply, I ask the technician to test it prior to installation in order to meet the OEM specification/requirements.

The IRL6372 being replaced has a 30V breakdown voltage, being used in a 24V circuit. There's margin, but not a lot of margin, so they could be prone to popping if the motor or power supply aren't well-behaved.

That looks like a relatively easy repair for someone with experience replacing SMDs. Given the proximity to other components, I'd probably use Chip Quik to remove the damaged IC and solder paste with an iron or very narrow hot air nozzle to solder the new IC in place.

I'm confused by your statement that you bought an AC-DC power supply for the roaster. The roaster has a built-in power supply. Did you try to run the roaster off batteries with a DC-to-AC inverter? If so, that's pretty risky. The voltage has to be well-regulated and the AC frequency has to match what the roaster's power supply was designed for. I see on the Ikawa website that there are different 220V-240V versions for EU and Swiss, which I believe has to do with different AC frequency standards. This implies the roaster power supply can't handle the wrong frequency.

Now I understand why Ikawa declined warranty support. No way running the roaster with any kind of external power supply would be supported.

Thank you for your input, it might miss lead that the truth is my IKAWA was not working at first, and then I tried to bring it back to alive by using amateur technic and resulting in the IC being burned. In addition, the working VAC of the AC-DC power supply is about 95VAC to 252VAC IAW the power supply specification. The difference between input voltage shall be incorporated differently from the heating ASSY in accordantly.

IMHO, if something's gonna pop, best-case scenario is a commercially available component. In this case there are several drop-in equivalents for the chip that burned out - so that's good news!

There's a line-voltage to 24 volt power supply module inside the Ikawa that looks like it may be rated for global use, 120-240V. That would simplify Ikawa's component sourcing and improve their supplier discounts. However, the one glaring exception is the heater circuit. Plugging a 120V Ikawa into a 240V mains could be a short-lived experiment - unless they got really clever with their PWM circuit. I'm sure one of the many fuses on their board covers this scenario.

Thank you for the further information.
I just received the great news that my IKAWA may have a chance to back to work again but there is a red/green light flashing when it powers on.
I cross-check the user manual and other sources it should be the doser not closing completely or the sensor issue. I will try to update the latest.

UPDATE:
My technician just inform me that my IKAWA is in working order and I plan to arrange the delivery time.



https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eVczfk ... sp=sharing

Jiduochou wrote:UPDATE:
My technician just inform me that my IKAWA is in working order and I plan to arrange the delivery time.

Yay, and congrats! A successful non-factory repair. When you get the machine back, I'm curious if you can still download recipes through their server.

Jiduochou wrote:I give the unit to a good hand outside of OEM. Yes, since the OEM would not sell the PCB board to the end-user, so repair the PCB will be the only option currently. I will try to update more but it may take a long period of time. Meanwhile, regarding the root cause of the chip failure, I am pretty sure that was on me because I bought a new AC-DC power supply, resulting in it. Upon the wrong choice of power supply, I ask the technician to test it prior to installation in order to meet the OEM specification/requirements.

Might be a good thing for the end user to tweak the board(s) if necessary as based on the pics posted some of those solder joints look a bit pathetic as in cold/sloppy.

I definitely will try to download recipes and upload to the machine after I have it back. I doubt this machine shall be as smart as Tesla does. Maybe yes maybe not.