Help needed with my Huky 500

Discuss roast levels and profiles for espresso, equipment for roasting coffee.
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#1: Post by Talyn »

So I am almost at 350 roasts on my Huky 500. I have regularly greased the bearings every 50 roasts. But of late I have taken to allowing the drum to continue to rotate between roasts to keep the drum a more even temperature. I used to turn it off between roasts.

Today I had been roasting for about 4 hours when I dropped my Brazil and the drum stopped spinning. I could still hear the motor but the drum stopped spinning. I shut it down straight away, dumped my beans and let it all cool down. After it had cooled, I was able to get the drum spinning again but it was sluggish to start spinning and I have not tested it with the weight of the green beans in the drum yet.

Has anyone had this happen to them?

Do I need to look at replacing the bearings or the motor?

Are there any good ideas as to how to effectively grease the bearings on the back by the motor? I do grease them and the front ones. But the rear ones are hard to get to due to the angle (I have been using the syringe of lubricant that Showroom Coffee provided with their package.

Also, any best suggestions as to how long I should go before giving the poor thing a break?

I thank you all in advance for any assistance or advice. :D

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#2: Post by Chert »

I'm on 2500+ roasts and I use an 18 volt power supply . I keep a couple spare 24 V power supply just in case. Every now and then mid roast the drum stops spinning. I switch it off and swtich it on again. I may have ever needed to flip the switch more than once, but I can't recall. It has always started to spin again. In my case I have assumed somehow a bean jams the spin and it falls away from obstruction the rotation, but I haven't had to cancel a roast for it. Once the propane burner is lit, I always keep the drum spinning until I finish cool down after session (usually 5-8 batches.)
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#3: Post by Marcelnl »

did you uncouple the motor to see if it;s the motor, the power supply OR the bearing that is causing the symptoms?

I replaced the front bearing a year or so ago, it had coffee oil caked into it and screamed like hell, the previous owner was no believer in cleaning the oils and likely also not a believer in greasing. Anyhow, it's a ceramic bearing that can be a bit of a PITA to remove, just be prepared to break it in pieces.

The back bearing is somehow much less prone to pollution and I must admit I never grease that one either.
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#4: Post by Brewzologist »

When it stopped spinning did the motor make a different sounding noise like it was jammed up?

I've done hundreds of roasts on my Huky for 6+ years and always leave the drum on until all my batches are done for the session.

About once a year I break it down to clean and inspect things and re-grease the bearings. Haven't had to replace anything yet.

I'm with Flint that it was mostly likely a bean that jammed between the drum and faceplate.

But it would also be worth removing the cover and running the motor to make sure the drum itself isn't binding on the faceplate. The spacer rods that the front and back faceplates are attached too can get misaligned so they aren't square to the drum which can create a binding situation especially when the drum is warm and expands. Usually loosening and tightening the spacer rods will fix that.

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#5: Post by Talyn (original poster) »

I have not taken anything apart yet. I am not exactly sure how to best go about removing the front and back plates or just removing the motor. I will try and page through the forums when I can. I am not dis-inclined mechanically, I just want to do it right and not mess something up.

As for the sound it is hard to describe. I will give a go here. All day today (in hind sight), I noticed a slight womp womp sound as the drum was rotating. It was not grinding per se. But normally it has an even sort of hum sound. When the drum stopped spinning today, the motor was still making noise at a higher pitch. The shaft that runs from the motor to the drum was not spinning. I let everything cool down some. When I plugged it back in and turned it on, the drum started to turn but slowly and eventually ramped up. I waited a bit and tested it again and it was spinning okay but I did not test it with a pound of beans.

I guess I will test it again next chance I get and then take stuff apart if I am still having issues. You folks are awesome and a ton of help. Thank you so much. I am having a blast roasting. It is something I fell into but throughly enjoy.

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#6: Post by Brewzologist »

The womp womp sound may be the drum rubbing on the front faceplate. There is some play in the bearings, so with the motor off, open the drop door and push the drum back from the faceplate. If the sound disappears then the drum was rubbing on the faceplate.

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#7: Post by mikelipino »

Due to the high heat and constant motion, I'd think the most likely culprit are the bearings. Seized bearings may also have damaged the motor, but it would be worth checking the bearings and motor separately. If you can disassemble it, I'd run the motor uncoupled from the bearings just to make sure it's okay. Assuming it's fine, I'd then inspect and likely clean & repack the bearings. Here's a video on the topic

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#8: Post by hankua »

I'd invest in some decent quality tool bits for working on the Huky, as it's easy to strip out the hardware. The other tip I'd suggest is to use your hand to press a panel in place, and then snug up a screw. For lubing my roaster I use the long wooden Q-tips that come in a sterile bag, assume it's a medical supply of sorts. Looks like this ... NYH1BMNH4H

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#9: Post by Brewzologist »

I replaced the hex head screws that hold the cover on with stainless Phillips screws. The stock cover screws were indeed easy to strip.

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#10: Post by Trjelenc »

I've dealt with a horrific grinding noise and even some binding - I believe on the faceplate - that I've alleviated by putting a short plank of wood maybe 1/2 inch thick underneath the front of the unit to tilt it backwards a bit and prevent the drum from sliding forward against the faceplate, yet causing no issues with dropping the beans. Hasn't been a problem since.

OP's problem seems more severe than this but FYI for those who experience grinding in the drum rotation