Help needed with my Huky 500 - Page 2

Discuss roast levels and profiles for espresso, equipment for roasting coffee.
Talyn (original poster)
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#11: Post by Talyn (original poster) »

Okay so I disassembled the roaster today, cleaned and re-packed the bearings and put it back together. Definitely the rear bearing had less grease on it than I would have liked. I could not detect any damage to it. It spun okay and none of the bearings were warped or cracked. I do not have a frame of reference of how smoothly they should spin though. LOL they spun fine but not as smoothly as something like a fidget spinner per se.

So I put it back together and turned it on. Clearly something is wrong with the motor. It started turning slowly and eventually ramped up to speed. Adding any resistance or weight to the drum caused it to stop turning. I could still hear the motor but the shaft was not cranking with any resistsnce added to the drum. Also of note, when I took the motor apart, one of the mounting nuts and lock washer were loose inside of the housing.

Observations:

1) The nuts and washers for the motor are a royal pain in the rear end to bolt down again so I reversed them to where the nut was on the outside of the housing, hehe. It was a super tight spot and I could not find my long thin needle nose pliers.

2) The motor seems rather small for doing such a big job. But I gather not many folks have issues with it.

3) It was a lot easier to take apart than I thought.


Questions:

1) I was not happy with the amount of grease on the rear bearing. As I mentioned above, it is a difficult angle to get in the lubricant. Would a spray food grade silicone lubricant be okay or would it be better to remove the motor and really get in there to lube those bearings every 50 roasts ( interm recommended in the instructions)?

2) Does anyone have recommendations for a metal bearing that would work or should I stick with the ones provided? I am just wondering if metal bearings would do better.

3) I had already ordered a new motor and bearings as a back up in case this happened. I noticed the wiring was all soldered together with the switch. I am not sure if Showroom ships the motor with a switch. If not, what is the best way to re-wire? Should I splice the wire? If so, what would be the best way? Or do I cut it off near the motor, strip a new bit of wire and then re-solder?

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Brewzologist
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#12: Post by Brewzologist »

Can only go from my experience but have hundreds of roasts thru mine and the ceramic bearings are still fine. IMO they don't need a lot of lube either. I don't think they need to be horribly precise for this application/RPMs so replacing with metal bearings would be overkill. Just my 2 cents.

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hankua
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#13: Post by hankua »

Normally heat resistant food grade lube is what's used on a coffee roaster. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0 ... 0OWP&psc=1
It's been said the ceramic bearings sold with the Huky are high quality, and I've found the small bearings sold on Amazon to be of very low quality.

Curious if you've tested out the motor with it separate from the roaster, isolated the issue yet? Most people order the motor assembly, which includes the housing; because you can see how much of a pita replacing the motor is. I remember taking it apart one time, the housing was hand made, difficult to reassemble. It would be better to solder the connections, however there are high quality connectors available. If necessary an extension/patch wire's might help if they're too short.

Talyn (original poster)
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Joined: 2 years ago

#14: Post by Talyn (original poster) »

Yes it ran fine disconnected and spinning on it's own. I am not sure how to test the RPMs.

I do plan on replacing the bearings first and then re-testing the motor as I did also order replacement bearings.

Thanks for the link! Parts to arrive Tuesday so sometime next week with work permitting, I will check it all out.

Marcelnl
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#15: Post by Marcelnl »

did you also check the PSU for the motor?
LMWDP #483

Talyn (original poster)
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#16: Post by Talyn (original poster) »

Oh power supply? Light is green. I am guessing it is okay.

Marcelnl
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#17: Post by Marcelnl »

you'd think so, yet I'd try another just to be sure.
LMWDP #483

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hankua
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#18: Post by hankua »

Rpm check, use a sharpie to make a line or a piece of tape on a moving part; count the rev's in one minute.

Talyn (original poster)
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#19: Post by Talyn (original poster) »

Power supply looks good. I replaced the bearings for good measure but that did not solve the issue. So today I replaced the motor and re-soldered the wires to it. And we are back in business! It sounds much better. I honestly think something was wrong with the first motor from the get go. I am right on the stated 72 rpms with the solid drum.

Thank you all for the help and advice! It meant the world to me. I have learned a ton too.

Talyn (original poster)
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Joined: 2 years ago

#20: Post by Talyn (original poster) »

And I was wrong. I did still test a new power supply and that is not the issue. It appears to me that the hex bolt coming put of the back of the drum is stripped. The transition nut from the drum to the motor has a ton of play in it and only properly turns the drum when it is depressed all the way as far as it will go.