Fun, I'm doing the same thing with my Kaldi Fortis that I bought. I'm creating an arduino and raspberry pi controlled, fully automated roaster which will have the ability for me to perform a 100% manual roast, then save it for later. If I really nail the roast, I can "play it back" weeks later and get another batch of perfectly roasted coffee. Or at least that's the idea.

I just got my 10" touchscreen in the mail today, which will run Artesian and I'm still waiting on my 2 3.2" oled screens which will serve as raw telemetry displays.

I purchased a Parker Proportional Valve (model BP2EV0006) to control the gas flow to my ribbon burner. It's astronomically expensive but easy to drive since it takes 0-5v DC as input for the control side and makes it an easy candidate for my arduino mega to control. I got a good deal from an eBay seller so I went for it. The big question will be whether the orifice size allows for enough gas to flow through or not.

A potential option for you which might prove to be even smarter than my digital proportional valve is the Maxitrol Selectra M420RH controllable valve (you need to "H" variants to get to 11wc output pressure) and the Maxitrol Selectra SC11b control board.

I like your chaffe collector. Where did you end up buying the Cam York blower from? I wanted to order one of the 24vDC CY100's but the shipping and potential lead time made it questionable.

Also where did you end up getting that enclosure from? I was planning on welding a base together, but that one looks pretty nice.

Looks like the beginning of an interesting build. As you go along, please post part numbers and sources for the benefit of others who may attempt this in the future. (Beating Michael to the punch here! )

Another thought: Coffee roasters often end up being Rube Goldberg contraptions that are unwieldy. This doesn't matter much if you plan to have a fixed installation. But if you intend to put this on a cart, you may want to consider this as you design your solution. Lot's of top-heaviness there that can be mitigated if you mount your burner and cooling tray into the work surface, and also figure a way to mount your chaff collector below the surface.

Robert_S wrote: At some point in the future I will look at having Artisan control the entire roast start to finish.

If you attempt this, you need to have a backstop as roasts never go on AUTO, for a variety of reasons including inconsistent ambient conditions to inconsistent between batch protocols..... you get it.

While the engineering is fun, experiencing the process is even more fun.

Looks good so far, I'd try undercutting a 1.5" hole with a dremel and hand fitting. Or possible looking for a stainless funnel and adding a flange to the pot; or a flange from Mr. Li ?

Chert wrote: Are you aware of stepper motor roasting controls functioning well.

In theory it seems it should work. The stepper motor moves in set increments and thus if I return to the exact same stepper motor position, I should get the expected gas pressure setting.... in theory. I tried a basic calibration POC and it seemed to work well. Though once I have everything connected and do a detailed calibration, I want to see if I change the gas setting 100s of times if the same stepper position maps to the same pressure or do I get some drift (the stepper motor does have a small margin of error).

cmapes wrote:Where did you end up buying the Cam York blower from?

Sounds like we are on the same journey! I saw some of those gas valves you mentioned and the price was indeed high. I will see if my valve+stepper combo ends up working or not. Good eyes... the blower fan is the 24V CY100 (high heat version). Mr Li was kind enough to source this for me in Taiwan and include it in my Huky order. I just had to pay $97 for the fan and the shipping charges for the Huky covered the fan shipping (same box).

Here is the enclosure: https://www.hawkusa.com/manufacturers/h ... s/csg18126

Brewzologist wrote:As you go along, please post part numbers and sources for the benefit of others who may attempt this in the future.

Good idea, I have the list which I will post here later.

I'm toying with an afterburner idea.

Maybe your setup has some common design.

Do you use the blower to draw air through the Huky for roasting? It will be controlled during roasting if desired? My DC and my (other controller box) AC fans at app 250+ cfm run at about 30% power in roasting and I increase to 100% to cool the roaster after the session. It seems to me there is enough reserve power in a typical fan to serve as cooling for the bean batch, and draw air through for roasting / cool roaster after session.

Is it possible to direct the air and chaff movement along, through ductwork, but not through the blades? They get gunked up and if there is much of a mesh in front of the fan the air movement starts to drag quite soon.

Flint; I made a chaff collector where the chaff falls into the bottom of the box. I used a spare cooling tray in front of the fan to keep chaff from blowing through it. This keeps the blades from getting gunked up nearly as quickly. I usually brush the screen on the cooling tray after a few roast sessions to keep that from getting gunked up too. Only clean the fan about every few months. I found the fan to have more than enough power even with the screen in front of it to drive the Huky in a roast. Just passing this concept along for brainstorming as the OP builds out his solution and you consider your afterburner. It has worked quite well for me.

https://www.hukyowners.com/t/post-your- ... tion/138/5

I like that. In more hillbilly style I ended up with a system that I can roast 5-8 batches between cleanouts, however the heat melted my fan bldes and every 100 roasts or so the screen would gum up. With the next fan, an AC fan, I removed the screens and placed the fan 3 feet beyond in duct work. We'll see if that increases the longevity. With an afterburner, I would be fine with the chaff going into the flames. At least I don't see a problem with that, except I think they won't travel that far in a typical CFM during roast and full 300 CFM probably won't pick them back up to fuel my afterburner, either.

In any event, I think the fan blades must be in line so a metal blower makes more sense to me than plastic, and not in a high heat environment, may 60-70C max.

Chert wrote:Do you use the blower to draw air through the Huky for roasting? It will be controlled during roasting if desired? Is it possible to direct the air and chaff movement along, through ductwork, but not through the blades?

The blower will be used to draw the air through the Huky, I have a second fan for the bean cooling. My hope of the cyclone is that chaff falls to the bottom and the air that goes through the blower is mainly chaff-free. I don't have this up and running yet so not sure how clean the fan blades will be. Maybe some other cyclone chaff owners can chime in.