Finally! North Coffee TJ-067 - Gas Version - Page 24

Discuss roast levels and profiles for espresso, equipment for roasting coffee.
User avatar
slickrock

#231: Post by slickrock »

That would be ET. If the probe was outside the drum near the surface, then it would be MET.
07/11/1991, 08/21/2017, 04/08/2024, 08/12/2045

User avatar
drgary
Team HB

#232: Post by drgary »

Corrected above. :mrgreen:
Gary
LMWDP#308

What I WOULD do for a good cup of coffee!

ECM Manufacture: @ecmespresso #weliveespresso
Sponsored by ECM Manufacture
User avatar
drgary
Team HB

#233: Post by drgary »

An interesting conversation started about a new IR version of the North TJ-067. I've split that off as its own topic so it can be easily found. Here's the link.

North Coffee TJ-067 - IR Version
Gary
LMWDP#308

What I WOULD do for a good cup of coffee!

jerbear00

#234: Post by jerbear00 »

Got up and running with my new TJ-067 thanks to steve. I will report back once I get a little more settled in.

User avatar
drgary
Team HB

#235: Post by drgary »

I fired up the roaster the first time after our move and was able to fix the drum rub. So, mechanically it's great. Of course Artisan shows lots of spikes so I'm bedeveled with the old readout noise problem. I wrote to Steve asking his recommendation for probes. The probes have worked for me in the past but not today. I'm also trying to figure out the beeping at the start of the roast and near the end (and will search the thread for that in a bit). But even with seven year old greens into a rolling second crack there's no tipping or charring and my roaster is fitted with their perforated drum. "I think this is the beginning of a beautiful friendship." And my roasting quarters couldn't be more ideal. The workshop space transmits the coolness of the earth through the concrete slab, so it's cool in the heat of summer.



Gary
LMWDP#308

What I WOULD do for a good cup of coffee!

User avatar
slickrock

#236: Post by slickrock »

drgary wrote:...Of course Artisan shows lots of spikes so I'm bedeveled with the old readout noise problem. I wrote to Steve asking his recommendation for probes. The probes have worked for me in the past but not today. I'm also trying to figure out the beeping at the start of the roast and near the end ...
The beeping is the current alarm temperature setting on the Fotek PID. It is only a alarm (stops after a few seconds) and won't affect roast control. There a over a dozen alarm modes on the PID... the one that came setup was a ALM1 set to some temperature threshold. You can go in the alarm setting mode to change the temp or disable it altogether. I find it useful to set it a value close to FC to keep you on your toes as you enter that phase of the roast. You can also set ALM2 to some point near SC for similar reasons.

One thing I found hugely useful is using the PID SV setting to preheat the roaster and set accurate drop temps. Initially, I set mine to around 160C and let the roaster PID-cycle for awhile to reach temp stability around this value. After I pull the door and drop the beans, I change the SV to a temp value past SC to provide 3rd-crack safety.

Those Artisan spikes may have nothing to do with the probes and may be related to the Mac you use to run Artisan. I did some testing of this back in Huky days and found it to be my Macbook Pro with 10.6 O/SX. I'm now running a new notebook with Mountain Lion using a TC4 and its very clean. Also, I may have some extra Procon M5/M6 temp probes that I could give, which I gathered back when I was experimenting with probe placement on the North.
07/11/1991, 08/21/2017, 04/08/2024, 08/12/2045

jerbear00

#237: Post by jerbear00 »

I was going to suggest the same thing. Vanessa (Steve's chief minion :lol: ) sent this to me:


Program controller these settings:

AL1: 420 (F)
AL2: 460 (F)

SLH: 450 (F)

Leave everything else.

After that set your SV temp to 440 F.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kI5kCzt23o0

Urnex: 100% dedicated focus on coffee and tea cleaning
Sponsored by Urnex
jerbear00

#238: Post by jerbear00 »

Incidentally, where are others placing your ET? I took out the analog thermometer off the front and stuffed a thermocouple...

Not entirely pleased though as the reading seems lower than expected and dips under the BT I have.

User avatar
slickrock

#239: Post by slickrock » replying to jerbear00 »

I think I have ET worked out. I've worked with Procon to have 3mm stainless, ungrounded thermocouples made with M6 threading, which can be directly placed (i.e. no drilling) in the tapped hole location where the lower right-hand screw holds the bean chute to the front faceplate. It needs to be at least 2.5" long to reach well into the interior of the drum so it doesn't pick up heat from the faceplate. At 1" length, it's temp tracking is too muted. I went for 3" and bent the probe (with a crude/makeshift miniature pipe bender) to clear the double-decker fins.

I have a drill press so I could go wild with placement, but got gun shy over time and thought to make one of the existing holes in the faceplate work; also my unit didn't come with an analog gauge in the chute, so this wasn't an option, though I feel that location would be suboptimal because it relies and discrete airflow to get a good reading. If you don't use the fan and keep the hopper trapdoor shut, for example, ET readings will be subdued.

For BT, my experimentation is still in flux as I have two taps at the moment with different probe lengths, trying to find the optimum configuration for accurate temperature read versus batch size flexibility. Stay tuned.


P.S. Adding a MET probe for this roaster would prove more complicated. Luckily, though, I don't find a need for it because drums temps are well in within check throughout the roast cycle due to its overbuilt design, even at heavier batch loads past its 1Kg rated capacity.
07/11/1991, 08/21/2017, 04/08/2024, 08/12/2045

jerbear00

#240: Post by jerbear00 »

Good read thanks for sharing.