Instead of the shaker, look at ss funnels on amazon - lots of them are a good fit for the b-a-r. I also have one and tried to make a roaster. The problem I had was getting enough heat at the airflow needed to loft the beans. A 1500 watt bare heatgun element just would not do it for me. My little dirt devil vac on a speed controller could easily loft any size load up to 1# even at room temp. I finally just made a typical drum roaster, but would like to someday revisit the fluid bed.
Rich

renatoa wrote:Then bake-a-round is too big, it's sweet spot is in the 250-400 grams range.

You should check for a 82 mm glass, probably french press... that suits a 500 ml shacker, as I have on my desk.
Maybe even a popper, but those are too narrow at 70mm, not enough space to make an uniform "fountain".

Pardon my latecoming: what is the shaker we're speaking about? Funnel? What is a B-A-R?

I happen to have this little french press from Ikea (80mm):

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/00297850/

And what's the best way to cut the bottom off the FP?

b-a-r = bake-a-round

The shaker upper part is usually the hot air entry and beans funnel, check here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k_GJ-7MUQUI

to cut glass I am using such diamond coated disks:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/10pc-20mm-d ... 3-2mm.html

matching a french press glass with a funnel or shaker is simply a matter of ... luck if you don't have actual dimensions of both.

renatoa wrote:b-a-r = bake-a-round

The shaker upper part is usually the hot air entry and beans funnel, check here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k_GJ-7MUQUI

to cut glass I am using such diamond coated disks:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/10pc-20mm-d ... 3-2mm.html

matching a french press glass with a funnel or shaker is simply a matter of ... luck if you don't have actual dimensions of both.

Ah, I was confused since oldgearhead's was a Bloomfield Airpot Roaster

I have this little guy:

Bloomfield Airpot Roaster is the enclosure, but he a Bake-A-Round as roast chamber

https://forum.homeroasters.org/forum/at ... c_5291.jpg

Both having B-A-R initials, lol, that's confusion !

Still no luck with finding a suitable cocktail shaker. I'm investigating sink drain units, but a lot of the coatings used make me nervous. I won't have much time to work on the roaster in the next week or so, but if I don't find an off the shelf part soon I'm going to be looking into fabricating my own or finding a machine shop to make one for me.

freeadvice wrote:I found this info from another website with another bake a round build:

Cocktail Shaker:

Chefmate
SKU: 490700500373
Another: 070 05 0037
last number: ID67455-0037
It is distributed by Target Corp

Cocktail shaker is a Chefmate. No size listed but it holds right at 24oz. it is 3.5 on the top and fits nicely in the Bake Around.

I found that model in another thread, however it seems completely discontinued and I can't find it anywhere.

AZRich wrote:Instead of the shaker, look at ss funnels on amazon - lots of them are a good fit for the b-a-r. I also have one and tried to make a roaster. The problem I had was getting enough heat at the airflow needed to loft the beans. A 1500 watt bare heatgun element just would not do it for me. My little dirt devil vac on a speed controller could easily loft any size load up to 1# even at room temp. I finally just made a typical drum roaster, but would like to someday revisit the fluid bed.
Rich

That's actually a pretty good idea, however I'd be a little worried about the increase in static pressure with the smaller opening though. I'd also have to attach some sort of connector to the heating element outlet, which is a huge reason I'd like to use a cocktail shaker since they all seem to have a standardized opening that fits perfectly. As far as your roaster's lack of heat did you try insulating the heat chamber? That seems to make a huge difference in efficiency.

Almico wrote:Pardon my latecoming: what is the shaker we're speaking about? Funnel? What is a B-A-R?

I happen to have this little french press from Ikea (80mm):

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/00297850/

And what's the best way to cut the bottom off the FP?

As renatoa mentioned you can use a dremel tool, a superheated wire can work as well. You could probably take it to a local glass shop and get it cut for cheap as well.

false1001 wrote: That's actually a pretty good idea, however I'd be a little worried about the increase in static pressure with the smaller opening though. I'd also have to attach some sort of connector to the heating element outlet, which is a huge reason I'd like to use a cocktail shaker since they all seem to have a standardized opening that fits perfectly. As far as your roaster's lack of heat did you try insulating the heat chamber? That seems to make a huge difference in efficiency.

I understand the shaker may need less adaptations. I often see shakers at my local Goodwill store. (A $10 harbor freight grinder can also open up the neck of any funnel to whatever you need as well.) My attempt used a common 1500 watt Master heatgun bare element mounted inside a 1.5" thinwall plumbing tube and was not insulated as I recall. I would not assume that 1500 watts will be enough for the B-A-R glass tube regardless of insulation. I'd go overkill next time on the heat if it was me.
Rich

In an extremely disappointing update I've managed to somehow break my bake-a-round.

I found a cocktail shaker at a local hardware store with dimensions on the box (!) suggesting a perfect fit (!!!). I get home and find the cap to be barely under a millimeter too big. The edge of my bake-a-round is rounded and to my eye looked like it created a slightly uneven fit in some places, so I grabbed a rubber hammer and slowly attempted to tap the shaker top into place. I was extra careful to go slow and gentle so as not to create a sudden pressure point on the pyrex. It worked. Excited, I got up to go grab the heating element to test fit and while my back is turned I hear a loud pop and turn around to see the pyrex has fractured and a large piece has completely separated. While I have little knowledge about the exact chemical properties of borosilicate glass my experience with pyrex in the kitchen tells me that really should not have happened.

I'm reasonably disappointed at this, however I could use this opportunity to find a chamber that will be easier to fit with a cocktail shaker. I'd like to use a french press but I won't have access to a machine shop to cut the bottom off for another two/three weeks and I'm a little worried that glass will provide less insulation than the pyrex. I luckily live near a scientific glass shop, I'm considering asking them just to make something for me and paying the premium just to have it done with. However I am open to other suggestions. Worst comes to worst I guess I could just silicon the bake-a-round back together and flip it the other way around. That still leaves me trying to find a reducing connector though.

AZRich wrote:I understand the shaker may need less adaptations. I often see shakers at my local Goodwill store. (A $10 harbor freight grinder can also open up the neck of any funnel to whatever you need as well.) My attempt used a common 1500 watt Master heatgun bare element mounted inside a 1.5" thinwall plumbing tube and was not insulated as I recall. I would not assume that 1500 watts will be enough for the B-A-R glass tube regardless of insulation. I'd go overkill next time on the heat if it was me.
Rich

I have a 2k watt element, however I'm hoping that my attempts to optimize the spouting bed outlets will mean I have to use less airflow for agitation and a reducer above the element will increase static pressure slightly and thus heating efficiency. The goal is to not run anything at 100% to increase longevity of the heating element. FWIW I think you're also discounting the effect good insulation could have, from what i've read on here it seems second only to recirculating air for increasing heater efficiency.

You may be right on the effects of insulation - wish I'd done that. I also believe there were some studies of different air opening designs - hole layouts, sizes, etc, and their effect on bean lofting efficiency that were done on the Homeroasters forums some time back. To my mind, there is no compelling reason to have to use a glass roast chamber, and I'd probably use metal personally if I tried again. Sorry to hear of your broken BAR.
regards, Rich

You can have a perfect fit without any forcing, and crack (pun intended ) at roast time, because of higher metal dilatation than glass.
As happened here at 9:44
So is advisable to have a small, 1 mm, play of funnel inside glass, or use a bigger funnel, to embrace glass from outside.
Seal with kapton tape in both cases.