samhfoley wrote:OK, I'll tick the swap button when I go back out to the shop tomorrow. Kind of frustrating. now I have enough coffee for a week, but I want to roast again to figure this out. Are we sure that the probes are backwards/ Should I take them out of the center and put them back in? Take pics of the probes/center?? ....or just tick the swap button on Artisan and try and roast again....in 3-4 days.

Near 11pm here in Japan and headed to bed soon. I want to express my continued thanks to you all for working with me through this. It's very helpful.

the probes are identical so no need to physically attack those, you can either swap leads or swap channels or go the easiest route and tick the swap box

WHy not roast some more, if this batch will last you a week you will keep drinking unrested coffee...you need a stash to be able to rest it for 3-6 days. And you can always give away surplus coffee..see it as a return favor for the umeboshi I'm sure you got from someone as a gift

bean2friends wrote:A soak on the small perforated drum of the Huky makes no sense to me.

samhfoley wrote:I am using a solid drum

Marcelnl wrote:that is also what I am currently thinking; BT means little and thermal mass is low. BUT; let's get him started with roasting first , before we make it more complicated than it needs to be.

I have a solid drum Huky and have always done a ~1min soak after charge. I get why it may not be useful on a perforated drum, but I am curious if others feel it is also not useful on the solid drum, and if so why?

To me it is likley useful in a solid drum as conduction heat is a larger part of total heat transfer, in a perforated drum convection is the largest contributor (I assume). Whacking the gas up under a solid drum is more likely creating issues w tipping, in a perforated drum there is little energy stored in the drum so heating up takes long and may cause issues later in the roast being behind the curve.

just my 2 cents

Ok sidebar on testing times for beans.

LOL I've always tried to rest my espresso blend 3-5 days but have never considered testing my single origin beans that I use for French Press.


Sounds like I may want to rethink those times?

whatever works for you, it depends a lot on the type of bean and roast level, at least that is my observation. 3 days is about the minimum I aim for, but usually I roast a bit too late or we have a sudden uptake in demand and end up using freshly roasted coffee. To me most coffees peak after let's say 5 days at my usual roast level (which I always thought to be medium but probably is a shade lighter than that), I tend to target 20-ish% 'development time' and 1m30-2m post FC with drop temp around 214 'C

Well finally cupped that Ethiopian I roasted and it's not so great...pretty light in body and sour in taste. Might go roast again today....

I roasted again and got much the same result as the first time...perhaps a shade darker. I took pics of my artisan settings. You can tell me if I should leave them as is or change something. I was a bit confused because you told me to click swap button so I did not know if I should be following BT or ET for Gas adjustments....I stuck to BT.....again pretty fast.....1min 30sec....150....

https://ibb.co/pPkXxQ1
https://ibb.co/6YTdNKb
https://ibb.co/BqRtCgN
https://ibb.co/RgDgstk

In the roasted bean picture, the closer bean is the 1st roast and the further one is what I just finished. Drop at end of FC or thereabouts
Thoughts?

Does this chart look better? Do I need to uncheck the swap box?? Higher charge temp???

It looks to me as if the lowest of the three upper lines in your graph is BT, your TP would then lie close to expectations in time and temperature (TP around 100'C, at around 1m40)

You probably want to follow the wire coming from the BT TC to the device you connnect it to, and disconnect to see if the line you are looking at disappears with Artisan active. I am quite sure you are NOT using the right data, aka your BT probe.

In the first post in this interesting thread it shows the BT probe (from the inside, you on the front it's reverse image); Huky - Temperature Probe Upgrade - T/C & RTD

Upper probe is MET, right side of the trier is ET, lower left side of the trier is BT.

Looking at the graph your BT seems off by a bit as FC is expected around 197 or so (assuming the lowest of three upper curves is BT), FC is a bit late for 300g but that may be due to how you managed heat (likely based on the wrong input). BT can be adjusted, but I suggest to frst tackle the correct labeling of the probes, roast some varieties to get a handle on average PC temp and then decide to adjust.

I'm sure you are close and that your delta BT is going to be far more informative once you can use the right input!

same player shoot again!

Thanks again! If that is the case, how to remedy it? Untick the swap button? Hate the time difference. Always get advice as I am about to go to bed. LOL. I'll try and roast again tomorrow if I get enough info to make an educated roast. LOL. I''ll check the wiring and remove the BT probe from the Center 304/T1 port and see what line disappears on Artisan. If you are correct and the ET/Gray line disappears, then what should I do going forward? Because it is the BT number that is guiding me through the roast, is it not? That dictates charge temp, gas changes, air changes, etc...

++nothing to change on either of the settings pages I uploaded?**

I would indeed untick the swap button first, connect everything and start a roast (wo beans) apply some heat, and pull each of the three probes connectors one after the other so you know which is which and connect them in right order and you're done.

BT is important for keeping track of charge temp, TP, dry end, FC etc, but more important ; it provides you the raw data for delta BT which in turn provides the valuable input to manage heat!