Wiring harness help, Rancilio L4 - Page 2
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- Posts: 24
- Joined: 5 years ago
Can you suggest a crimper brand or model?
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- Team HB
- Posts: 5525
- Joined: 16 years ago
One of these might work perfectly. But I have neither so I can't say. These are both from a search on Amazon for "open barrel crimping," but that same search will work on Aliexpress, eBay or most anywhere else.
https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Harness-Cr ... B01M1YK5FM
https://www.amazon.com/Keenso-Professio ... B07JNSCH83
Ira
https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Harness-Cr ... B01M1YK5FM
https://www.amazon.com/Keenso-Professio ... B07JNSCH83
Ira
- civ
- Posts: 1148
- Joined: 17 years ago
Hello:
I have seen similar switches in toaster ovens (a similar situation) go soft and die in a short time due to loose/bad contacts.
Were all components wired back properly?
I'd try to get a wiring schematic and do a thorough check.
That said, I have also seen that same type of switches overheat and fail/melt if they run too close to their limit for a long time.
Such a scenario would not trip the breaker.
Cheers,
CIV
I agree with your assessment.JRising wrote: ... both terminals on the same pole ... ... badly melted.
... switch wasn't making good contact ...
... would have to exceed 20A ... ... to melt the switch ...
... exceeding 20A for a moment should pop your breaker...
I have seen similar switches in toaster ovens (a similar situation) go soft and die in a short time due to loose/bad contacts.
Is the original harness the only thing the OP has changed?rancilio wrote: ... refurbished the machine with new components and now I am melting terminal covers and have shorted two power switches ...
Were all components wired back properly?
I'd try to get a wiring schematic and do a thorough check.
That said, I have also seen that same type of switches overheat and fail/melt if they run too close to their limit for a long time.
Such a scenario would not trip the breaker.
Cheers,
CIV
- civ
- Posts: 1148
- Joined: 17 years ago
Hello:
Obviously, you need the right jaws for that type of terminals (insulated) and from here it would seem they're the right ones.
I stopped using non-insulated terminals long ago, those semi-transparent thinguies that pose as insulation are a real nuisance and bake/become brittle easily and in a short time.
Cheers,
CIV
The crimping tool you have on the far right is the type (different brand) I use to crimp insulated terminals such as these.rancilio wrote:Can you suggest a crimper brand or model?
Obviously, you need the right jaws for that type of terminals (insulated) and from here it would seem they're the right ones.
I stopped using non-insulated terminals long ago, those semi-transparent thinguies that pose as insulation are a real nuisance and bake/become brittle easily and in a short time.
Cheers,
CIV
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- Posts: 24
- Joined: 5 years ago
Looking carefully over this beauty for any other indications of overheating, I realized that I have a wire coming from the water intake solenoid that used to be connected to my now replaced vibe pump, that is not connected to anything now. I believe it is a ground based on the looks of the old vibe pump terminal. My new pump doesn't have a similar connector. Nevertheless, this wire is not connected and I can't tell what it is based on the sketchy wire diagrams that I have. I doubt this is causing my overheating, but I don't know much...
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- Team HB
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Vibe pumps tend to be rubbed mounted and so are insulated from ground. Some factories add a ground for the pump which might not be there on a replacement. if it's green and yellow or connects to ground, I would not worry about it.
Ira
Ira
- civ
- Posts: 1148
- Joined: 17 years ago
Hello:
Unless one is technically inclined and trained, it is usually difficult to adequately convey technical situations/ideas to technically inclined people.
The common ground for all is then a photo ie: sight.
So a photo or two of what you are attempting to describe will be of great use to us. =-)
ie: of the wire coming from the water intake solenoid and the pump where it used to be connected to.
Also, I think it would be a good idea for you to post photos of your sketchy wire diagrams so we can have a look at what's been going on.
Cheers,
CIV
Pictures are worth a thousand words is said to be of Chinese origin but could have well been originated here at HB.rancilio wrote: Looking carefully over this beauty ...
... a wire coming from the water intake solenoid ...
Unless one is technically inclined and trained, it is usually difficult to adequately convey technical situations/ideas to technically inclined people.
The common ground for all is then a photo ie: sight.
So a photo or two of what you are attempting to describe will be of great use to us. =-)
ie: of the wire coming from the water intake solenoid and the pump where it used to be connected to.
Also, I think it would be a good idea for you to post photos of your sketchy wire diagrams so we can have a look at what's been going on.
Cheers,
CIV
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- Posts: 24
- Joined: 5 years ago
The yellow-green (Giallo-Verde, GV in diagram) wire connected the intake solenoid to the old vibe pump. I dissected the old vibe pump so its easy to see the terminal. I did not remove the wire coming from the solenoid and just last night taped it the new vibe pump frame. I might try to find some sort of clamp or bracket if you think it might be needed. The L6 is the plumbed version of the tank reservoir L4. Looking for my "sketchy" home-drawn wire diagram, I found a less-than-sketchy diagram that I forgot I had. Bravo!
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- Team HB
- Posts: 5525
- Joined: 16 years ago
Like I said, that's a ground. If you don't connect, just be aware that the case of the pump might become live if the pump coil shorts to metal. Quite unlikely, but conceptually possible.
- civ
- Posts: 1148
- Joined: 17 years ago
Hello:
That GV wire was grounding the all metal casing of the original pump's solenoid winding, protecting against shock in case the winding shorted.
It was phased out probably because the Ulka design evolved to an all plastic encapsulated/sealed solenoid winding with a proper IP rating, so it is not needed.
You can see the difference by comparing it to the new pump.
So I'd say that it is safe to do away with the section of GV wire that goes from P (pump) to EC (two way valve), but just that section.
Was about to comment about how un-sketchy it looked. 8^D
BTW: if you could replace the one you have uploaded with another one where all the legends can be read it would be great.
To do that, just edit you post and delete the reference as well as the file stored at the HB server.
Then upload the new one with a different name.
Right ...
I think we're in better shape now.
What I think has to be done now is this: before doing anything else, try to find your sketchy version of the circuit and check what you drew against the OEM version you just found.
To do that, you could make a photocopy or scan/print it and then trace the different connections with different color markers.
Chances are that if there is a discrepancy it will be in your version and then you will know right away what is wrong (if the problem is in the circuit).
Unless I am mistaken, the melted switch would be IG (main switch) and the lugs that are burnt out are where B (white) and M (brown) wires connect from the Ln (mains line).
Is this correct?
Cheers,
CIV
Right.rancilio wrote: ... yellow-green (Giallo-Verde, GV in diagram) wire connected the intake ...
That GV wire was grounding the all metal casing of the original pump's solenoid winding, protecting against shock in case the winding shorted.
It was phased out probably because the Ulka design evolved to an all plastic encapsulated/sealed solenoid winding with a proper IP rating, so it is not needed.
You can see the difference by comparing it to the new pump.
So I'd say that it is safe to do away with the section of GV wire that goes from P (pump) to EC (two way valve), but just that section.
Indeed ...rancilio wrote: ... found a less-than-sketchy diagram ...
Was about to comment about how un-sketchy it looked. 8^D
BTW: if you could replace the one you have uploaded with another one where all the legends can be read it would be great.
To do that, just edit you post and delete the reference as well as the file stored at the HB server.
Then upload the new one with a different name.
Right ...
I think we're in better shape now.
What I think has to be done now is this: before doing anything else, try to find your sketchy version of the circuit and check what you drew against the OEM version you just found.
To do that, you could make a photocopy or scan/print it and then trace the different connections with different color markers.
Chances are that if there is a discrepancy it will be in your version and then you will know right away what is wrong (if the problem is in the circuit).
Unless I am mistaken, the melted switch would be IG (main switch) and the lugs that are burnt out are where B (white) and M (brown) wires connect from the Ln (mains line).
Is this correct?
Cheers,
CIV