VFA Expres E61 restoration - Gicar repair/replacement? What is this pressurestat?

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
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#1: Post by benpiff »

Hi guys, I just bought a VFA Expres one group e61 to restore, and am wondering what my options are for the control box. When I first warmed the machine up, the boiler heated up, but I also saw smoke coming from wire number 1, where the wire goes into the male pin. A few wires look like they've gotten quite hot and have damaged insulation, and the female receptacle also has some melting around the corresponding pins.

Temporary solution?
I think I'll try bypassing the pins and just crimping connectors onto wire number 3, which allows the machine to heat up. But does anyone know which wire turns the pump on for the autofill (the machine just buzzes if I disconnect the fill probes, I believe from the solenoid)?

If I replace the wires and pins, will the system still be compromised? Would I be better off hard wiring directly to the box (bypassing the pins and receptacle)?

Does anyone know what the different numbers mean after "RL30"? Mine is designated "3ES", but this current model is designated "1E-2C/11" http://www.espressoparts.com/110v-gicar ... ntrol-unit. If I upload a picture of my wiring harness, can anyone tell me if this current model would work by switching wires on the machine side?

I'd like to at least temporarily get the machine warmed up so I can see what else it needs. I've been able to run the pump and have water come through the group easily, but the auto fill doesn't work so I had to fill the boiler manually through the top.

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benpiff (original poster)

#2: Post by benpiff (original poster) »

Hi all, I crimped connectors onto two wires to bypass the damaged pins, and was able to warm the machine up fully and test the pressurestat. I've never seen or heard of one of these, but I backed the adjustment out all the way until the cap came off, and it's still wanting to overheat. I see screws on the bottom of it, could this be serviced? Or is there a more modern direct replacement option?

Also, I found a source in Seattle that can repair or replace my Gicar box. Awesome.