Used Izzo Alex Duetto problems

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
brianinoc
Posts: 78
Joined: 7 years ago

#1: Post by brianinoc »

I just bought a used Izzo Alex Duetto for 200$. I believe it to be a version 1 since it doesn't have an alarm switch, but it does have a dual PID, external transformer, and SSRs.. The manufacturer stamp say made in 2010. Previous owner said he never descaled and did use it plumbed in at least some of the time. Said machine was 1-2 drinks a day for 8 years.

Problems:
1. The water flow is very slow and the pressure gauge reads 10 bar without a porta-filter attached. When I remove the inner nut on the top of the grouphead, it is pressurized even after turning the machine off. I can't remove the mushroom nut (it seems stuck even w/ a big wrench). The steam valve knob is also stuck. I'm taking this to mean I have a scale problem. Suggestions for the easiest fix?

2. There is an alarm in the gicar that starts beeping when I turn it on. What does this mean?

3. Some of the segments on the PID are dead. Is there an obvious fix or do I just replace it?

4. The hot water knob (old style) is missing. Any idea of where to get one?

5. The previous owner modified (shortened) the power cable. Any idea of where to get a replacement?

Does anyone know where to download a manual for a version 1 Alex Duetto and/or schematic?

Thanks,
Brian

Advertisement
User avatar
BaristaBoy E61
Posts: 3552
Joined: 9 years ago

#2: Post by BaristaBoy E61 »

I would recommend contacting Chris' Coffee Service Dept. You need to descale this machine with citric acid.

This thread might be helpful as it was to me.

Descaling E61 Double Boiler machine with Citric Acid - What should I know before I begin?
"You didn't buy an Espresso Machine - You bought a Chemistry Set!"

brianinoc (original poster)
Posts: 78
Joined: 7 years ago

#3: Post by brianinoc (original poster) »

Update. Alarm was due to water sensor microswitch coming loose from its mount. Steam valve is unstuck by loosening its collar. So I guess it is time to start descaling it next.

GreenEggsAndSam
Posts: 69
Joined: 5 years ago

#4: Post by GreenEggsAndSam »

Some of the segments on the PID are dead. Is there an obvious fix or do I just replace it?
Sorry, but unfortunately the only fix is a new PID. Since you have a dual PID you don't have to buy the extra external transformer at the same time though, so that's a plus.
The hot water knob (old style) is missing. Any idea of where to get one?
Which style of knob? (There are three versions) I might have a used one lying around that you could have for the price of postage.
The previous owner modified (shortened) the power cable. Any idea of where to get a replacement?
If you're okay with it not being OEM, you could just get a replacement from your neighborhood hardware store. You'd want a replacement plug like this one: https://www.grainger.com/product/4A250? ... 6418499119! (obviously get a 120V,20A version if you plan on using the machine in 20amp mode instead of 15amp mode). As for the cord, you should look for a three wire cord, with each wire being 12AWG. If you really want OEM, check with your local repair company. If even they don't have it, pm me and I'll give you the name of a place that I know has a few lying around.

brianinoc (original poster)
Posts: 78
Joined: 7 years ago

#5: Post by brianinoc (original poster) »

Thanks! The knob looks like the one on this page: http://coffeetime.wikidot.com/izzo-alex-duetto It is a five pointed star with a nut in the middle.

On the PID, I was hoping there was someone who knew about board level repair. I did find someone who knew about the PID failures. The suspicion is that the solder joints under the microprocessor fail from thermal cycling. He said that the PID area of the machine gets hotter than the PID is specced for. I'm not setup for solder reflow, so no luck there.

I don't have any familiar local repair places. So I would definitely appreciate a reference. Do the OEM cords come with the terminals already crimped on?

chipman
Posts: 1170
Joined: 16 years ago

#6: Post by chipman »

I would call Chris's coffee service for parts and advice.
https://www.chriscoffee.com

As for a local service, I remember someone posting a good repair facility in the L.A. area. I can't remember, but, there must be someone who fixes all those cafe machines. ( most of them will also fix home espresso)

brianinoc (original poster)
Posts: 78
Joined: 7 years ago

#7: Post by brianinoc (original poster) »

So new potential problem. Was rescaling and saw a tiny piece of rubber come into the mushroom chamber. Looks like a shaving off of an o-ring. Any guesses from where it could have come from?

Advertisement
brianinoc (original poster)
Posts: 78
Joined: 7 years ago

#8: Post by brianinoc (original poster) »

Another interesting issue. The steam boiler has a vacuum breaker that vents into the water tank. The hose length is such that the vacuum breaker hose is submerged into the water.

When the machine cools down, it sucks water into the steam boiler. I assume this isn't intended behavior. What is supposed to prevent this from happening though?

OldNuc
Posts: 2973
Joined: 10 years ago

#9: Post by OldNuc »

Hose terminates above the normal water level.

mammamia
Posts: 37
Joined: 7 years ago

#10: Post by mammamia »

brianinoc wrote: 3. Some of the segments on the PID are dead. Is there an obvious fix or do I just replace it?
I have no idea what the 'PID' means. If those are related to Gicar control box, you could call James Pat Boyt. He is one of masters for electronics in espresso machine world.

https://boytenterprises.com/pages/about-us

Also Chriscoffee has great reputation for helping a lot of customers through repairing process.

Post Reply