Used Izzo Alex Duetto problems - Page 2

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
GreenEggsAndSam
Posts: 69
Joined: 5 years ago

#11: Post by GreenEggsAndSam »

When the machine cools down, it sucks water into the steam boiler. I assume this isn't intended behavior. What is supposed to prevent this from happening though?
The easiest fix is just to cut a couple of slits on the tube above the level of the water. That will break the siphon that's allowing water to get sucked back into the boiler, but it will still send most of the moisture from the vacuum breaker into the reservoir. In case I'm not describing it well, here's a photo of what I mean:

brianinoc (original poster)
Posts: 78
Joined: 7 years ago

#12: Post by brianinoc (original poster) »

My steam boiler has a bunch of scale deposit on the outside of the heater element. It seems to be dry now, but obviously once leaked there.

Do I replace the heater element gasket or just wait and see what happens? There are electrical connections not far from the heating element.

Also, what is the general consensus on the E-61 group head. The valve gaskets don't appear to leak yet, but they do look kind of old. Do I just wait for a leak?

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GreenEggsAndSam
Posts: 69
Joined: 5 years ago

#13: Post by GreenEggsAndSam »

My steam boiler has a bunch of scale deposit on the outside of the heater element. It seems to be dry now, but obviously once leaked there.
It's possible that the previous owner already changed out the leaky gasket. Just to be safe though, check to see if you have a teflon gasket in between the element and boiler. If you check it and see a strip of white between the two, then you can just tighten down a bit on the gasket and that should resolve the issue. If you do not, then you likely have the original style of gasket for those elements--in which case I'd recommend replacing it with a teflon gasket as a precaution against future leaks. The original style gaskets are notorious for leaking but the newer style last the lifetime of the machine.
Also, what is the general consensus on the E-61 group head. The valve gaskets don't appear to leak yet, but they do look kind of old. Do I just wait for a leak?
My personal recommendation would be to wait until you have to change them. If they go bad, they won't damage your machine so there's no reason to change them without need.

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chuckcoffee
Posts: 297
Joined: 10 years ago

#14: Post by chuckcoffee »

Briannoc
My steam boiler has a bunch of scale deposit on the outside of the heater element. It seems to be dry now, but obviously once leaked there.
I would leave it unless you actually see water underneath or inside. I had a similar issue last year. The teflon gasket that" GreenEggsAndSam " is referring to can be seen in this link where the repair is documented.


For my Alex it was really sporadic. A couple drops every 2-3 days at random times.

Izzo Alex Duetto III Leak

brianinoc (original poster)
Posts: 78
Joined: 7 years ago

#15: Post by brianinoc (original poster) »

So I took a closer look. The plastic insulation on of one the connectors to the heating element has burnt black (the one that goes to the thermal fuse)... So I obviously need to replace that wire. Is there an appropriate pre-crimped wire I can buy, or do I need to crimp the wire?

There is a little corrosion on the affected heater element terminal. See:


Can I sand that away, or do I have to replace the entire heating element?

I also pretty much plan to replace the gasket now since it will make sanding much easier.

I also noticed a bit of a weird thing on the wires inside the machine that connect to the power cord. There is some color transfer between the braided insulation of the different wires. Does this sometime happen?

brianinoc (original poster)
Posts: 78
Joined: 7 years ago

#16: Post by brianinoc (original poster) »

I removed the heating element and that went pretty well. But then I discovered one of the terminals on the high limit thermostat is loose enough to wiggle. It looks like the rivet isn't very good. I assume that this means that I need to replace it also?

OldNuc
Posts: 2973
Joined: 10 years ago

#17: Post by OldNuc »

Yes, it has been overheated to the point of incipient failure.

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brianinoc (original poster)
Posts: 78
Joined: 7 years ago

#18: Post by brianinoc (original poster) »

Thanks. That was what I was afraid of. Another round of part orders to make.

brianinoc (original poster)
Posts: 78
Joined: 7 years ago

#19: Post by brianinoc (original poster) »

FYI. If anyone needs those Italian style plastic covers for the bare spades, you can get ones that work with the Italian style ones from Digikey. The male spade covers are TE Connectivity part 735093 and the male spades are TE Connectivity part 61281-3. The male spade covers from Digikey aren't exactly the same, but they are close enough to lock securely to the female spade covers.

brianinoc (original poster)
Posts: 78
Joined: 7 years ago

#20: Post by brianinoc (original poster) »

Finally got all the problems I know about fixed. A few bits of useful information in case anyone has the same problems:
(1) New knobs with that accept 8mm square valve stems can be order directly from Elesa USA.
(2) The rotary vane pump can be rebuilt by JC Beverage for ~$45 plus shipping. A new pump can be ordered from Fluid-O-Tech for 95$ plus shipping.
(3) The outlet spring in a fluid-o-tech rotary pump is to keep the flap in for the bypass valve. Fluidotech seems to suggest that this is needed on at least some of the valve configurations.

In the end, had to replace: PID controller, weight microswitch, steam boiler gasket, pump, high temperature thermostat for steam boiler, group gasket, a few crimp on connectors, missing hot water knob, mushroom o-ring, and power cord.

The steam pressure gauge could use replacing, but I'm just going to live with the offset of 0.75 bar from 0 for now... It did not seem easy to disassemble to fix the gauge.

Any suggestions on steam boiler insulation? It is currently uninsulated. I'd rather avoid another PID controller failure.

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