Trouble programming the Faema Carisma - Page 2

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
number9 (original poster)
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#11: Post by number9 (original poster) »

Jerry43 wrote:Press the ok button just long enough to get the "set" to appear. If I hold mine for 4 seconds it goes goofy and does switch to show C.
Hrm, I just set it up again and tried that... it takes four seconds for the "set" to appear.. I can not get it to change from C to F or F to C in any screen/mode. Also, I note the pressure gauge (the analog gauge) does not come up until you activate the group. Interestingly, it stays up after you activate the group and then push the handle down into the "stop" position. (e.g. if I put the cleaning stopper in it and activate the group the gauge rises to 9bar, but when I put the handle down the gauge stays at about 8bar... I wonder where this gauge is reading, really)

ChrisCoffee says they unpack and check every machine before shipment. I can see that this machine was unpacked and checked. I suppose they did not try to set the temperature with the buttons or they would have seen this. I will just give them a call Monday and use my other limping machine until this one gets replaced.

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number9 (original poster)
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Joined: 18 years ago

#12: Post by number9 (original poster) »

CSME9 wrote:Number9.....Send Chris N owner at CCS an email today, he is known to monitor an answer emails after hours and may be able to help solve the programming issue.
Good call. I sent them an email explaining the situation. Heh, this is just laughable. I had a broken machine, then I purchased a used machine to replace it, and it failed about 3 weeks after it arrived. Now I have a brand new machine that is faulty right out of the box.

kitt
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#13: Post by kitt »

number9 wrote:Also, I note the pressure gauge (the analog gauge) does not come up until you activate the group. Interestingly, it stays up after you activate the group and then push the handle down into the "stop" position. (e.g. if I put the cleaning stopper in it and activate the group the gauge rises to 9bar, but when I put the handle down the gauge stays at about 8bar... I wonder where this gauge is reading, really)
"You will also notice that the boiler pressure is pretty low.. even when I crank the "set" screen
up to 127 (whatever that means) and the boiler "temp" screen shows 255F, the boiler pressure seems
to be under 8 bar..."

Just checking, you do understand the analogue gauge is reading pump pressure and not boiler pressure?. It is not related to the digital boiler pressure readout at all. The only time to pay attention to it is when you're actually pulling a shot. As its a closed system, there will sometimes be residual pressure reading after closing the brew valve (lowering the lever). If you want for peace of mind, you can lower it from 8 bar after your blank shot experience by lifting the lever to brew position again for a few seconds

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HB
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#14: Post by HB »

number9 wrote:...if I put the cleaning stopper in it and activate the group the gauge rises to 9bar, but when I put the handle down the gauge stays at about 8bar...
To elaborate on Mike's (kitt) point, see Brew Pressure at Rest. In short, the brew pressure gauge's reading when the machine is idle isn't important.
Dan Kehn

chriscoffee
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#15: Post by chriscoffee »

Why do you want to lower it from 257. That will give you a boiler pressure of approximately 1.2 bars of pressure in the boiler. That is perfect. This is a heat exchanger machines and the PID controller simply takes the place of a mechanical pressurestat that is more prone to failure due to hot contacts that get carboned up. You are NOT setting brew temperature. If you have questions instead of posting on a forum about a relatively new machine that not many people are going to be able to help you with why don't you call the vendor that sold it to you or call us here at Chris' Coffee Service. 518-452-5995 follow the instructions on the recording and someone will call you back to assist you.
Chris Nachtrieb
Pres. Chris' Coffee Service, Inc.

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HB
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#16: Post by HB »

Chris is correct, this espresso machine uses a PID to control the steam boiler, not a pressurestat. So a temperature of 257°F is quite reasonable.
number9 wrote:It seems to heat up fine, but the boiler temp was really high right out of the box (like 257 degrees F), so I wanted to lower it.
This video explains the difference between heat exchangers and double boilers:
From Heat Exchanger vs. Double Boiler Espresso Machines
chris wrote:If you have questions instead of posting on a forum about a relatively new machine that not many people are going to be able to help you with why don't you call the vendor that sold it to you...
Good advice, but since he's already posted, I think one source of his confusion is the switching from Fahrenheit to Celsius when programming the steam boiler temperature. I've seen that before, e.g., espresso machines that will display Fahrenheit when running normally, but ignore the user temperature units preference when in programming mode. I don't know if this applies to the Charisma.
Dan Kehn

number9 (original poster)
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#17: Post by number9 (original poster) »

Ok, so I emailed ChrisCoffee, and someone did call me back today. They said they are pretty sure that there is a method to change the set screen temp from C to F, but they will give me a call monday after they find out if they can do it and how. I am still going to hold off on running coffee through it.

Chris said "You are NOT setting brew temperature."
I suppose I was confused at first about the temperature, but that does not negate the fact that if I did want to change it, the set temp is seemingly in C, but again, it has a big "F" next to it, indicating that it is in F, but it obviously is not.

As for posting to a forum and asking, well, it is Saturday and the chriscoffee site does in fact say Monday thru Friday, 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM EST on the contact page. I totally appreciate you wanting me to contact you on a weekend, but that was not my first choice specifically because it was a weekend. I just wanted to see if someone would say "Oh, I have one and that happened to me and if you press this and that it will change to F."

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number9 (original poster)
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#18: Post by number9 (original poster) »

HB wrote:To elaborate on Mike's (kitt) point, see Brew Pressure at Rest. In short, the brew pressure gauge's reading when the machine is idle isn't important.
Yes, the service person from Chriscoffee that called noted that the analogue gauge is a pump pressure
gauge and so it will be meaningless unless you activate the pump. For some reason I thought it was a
grouphead pressure gauge and I was wondering why it was "stuck" after you stop the pump. :oops:

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#19: Post by chriscoffee »

The programing on that machine is very basic and very simple. If I recall correctly you simply press and hold the set button for a few seconds and the machine enters the program mode. Now that you are in the program mode you can change what function you wish to make changes to by pressing again the set but momentarily. You can go to one function that is to switch between F and C. When you are in that mode the plus key gives you one setting and the minus key give you the other. I assume the minus key changes it to C since we set the machine to F at 256 degrees for the boiler temp. while bench testing the machine prior to shipping. Since in your thread you said you wanted to lower the temp. you must have gotten into the programing and changed from C to F by pressing the minus button. Since 125 C equals 257 F I am quite sure that is what you must have done.

To change back to F press and hold the set button after it enters the programing mode you are most likely in the F or C set you might want to try pressing the plus key that will most likely put you back to F. NOW if your temp is at 256 leave it alone it is perfect that is equal to 1.2 bars of pressure in your boiler. If you press the set button again, Momentarily you will be in the mode to change the boiler temperature. Again if it is at 256 leave it alone. To exit and save you can simply not touch the machine for I think 30 seconds and it will exit and save. as I said earlier very simple. Brew pressure with this machine as with ALL HX machines with vibratory pumps only measure brew pressure or should I say pressure in the group. To be sure the pumps maximum output pressure is set correctly put your blank into the portafilter and then put the portafilter into the group now rise your lever the pressure will start out around 4 bar, that is the pre-infusion part, it should then ramp up to 9 Bar if it does it is perfect leave it alone. I think I read in one of your previous posts that you did that and it was in fact at 9 bar like we set it prior to shipping. When the pump is NOT running and you press the lever down you will trap pressure in the group. Pay NO attention to it, it means nothing and can vary all over the place. It can start out at 7 or 8 bars and gradually drop or it can be at 4 bars and go up if the machine is cold then heats up and the trapped water expands. YOU MACHINE IS NOT BROKE you simply made unnecessary changes and are confused. I am sure that MANY people in this forum can tell you the same thing about the brew pressure when the lever is in the down position and the pump is not activated. I have 38 years experience in this business I know what am am talking about.
Chris Nachtrieb
Pres. Chris' Coffee Service, Inc.

number9 (original poster)
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#20: Post by number9 (original poster) »

chris wrote:The programing on that machine is very basic and very simple. If I recall correctly you simply press and hold the set button for a few seconds and the machine enters the program mode. Now that you are in the program mode you can change what function you wish to make changes to by pressing again the set but momentarily. You can go to one function that is to switch between F and C. When you are in that mode the plus key gives you one setting and the minus key give you the other.

To change back to F press and hold the set button after it enters the programing mode you are most likely in the F or C set you might want to try pressing the plus key that will most likely put you back to F. .
Well, I tried that and more. Let me note a few things:

I assume when you say "set" button you mean the "OK" button. There is no "set" button.

If I hold the OK button for four seconds it will go into set mode, as the manual states. You state that at that point I should press and hold the OK button and press + or - to change the mode/display. This does nothing and when I let go of the OK button it exits the set mode.

I have tried going into set mode by pressing the OK for four seconds and then keeping it held and pressing +/-. This changes nothing.

I have tried going into set mode by pressing the OK for four seconds and then letting go and then holding +/-, this only changed the temp by one degree (from 126 to 125 or 127).

I have tried going into set mode by pressing the OK for four seconds and then letting go and then pressing the OK button again, but this exits the set mode immediately.

I have tried entering set mode while I held the + or - button to see if that was how you enter the programming mode, but that actually does nothing.

One of your technicians was very kind in calling me yesterday and he told me that he would call me on Monday after he looks up how to change from C to F on the set display. My opinion is that there is something wrong with the display circuitry. If it is in C, why does it show F next to the 127? There are three buttons and only nine possible combinations of programming in set mode, and I have tried them all just to see... It will only do one of two things, exit the set mode or change the temp by one degree C. (note, I know when it is in set mode as the word "set" appears on the left when you enter set mode, as well as an asterisk appearing). Thanks.