I'm replacing the steam boiler on my LaSpaziale Dream after tech support at Chris Coffee helped me figure out what what was causing my GFCI's to pop every time the machine got warm. I have the machine opened up and am ready to start moving the fittings so now I have a question...I have the Rectorseal No.5 sealant I got at my local hardware store and then expect some Loctite 567 to be delivered on Sunday. Is the Loctite really that much better than the Rectorseal?

Tech support at Chris Coffee suggested a combination of teflon tape and Loctite, which I've heard conflicting opinions on, but I want to do it right the first time.

I've used Loctite 2046 a year ago and it still holds strong. But you have to wait 24hrs for it to set up before any further action.

One of our moderators, JakeG, likes Rectorseal 5. He told me he used it on every fitting in his GS/3 and has never had a leak.

I have a can on hand but have yet to try it. My feeling is that properly installed BSPP fittings shouldn't leak. Proper installation means using the sealing method appropriate for the fitting: copper washer, fiber gasket, O-ring, etc. The other trick is to tighten the fittings enough for them to seal without over-tightening. That takes some practice. After installing a fitting, I always watch it carefully for any signs of leaks. Usually tightening it slightly more does the job. I've had good luck with this approach on my GS/3 over the past 12 years.

However, early into owning my GS/3, the techs at Chris Coffee told me they use Teflon tape on problem fittings. When the fiber gasket in my steam boiler level probe disintegrated, I used Teflon tape to seal it until the new gasket arrived. Worked fine. In fact, it's still there because I saw no need to install the fiber gasket after it arrived. I also use Teflon tape to seal the steam tip to the steam arm. I believe later models with the no-burn arm use O-rings for that, but my early burn-me arm didn't come with one and others I've tried didn't work.

One caution about Teflon tape: Cover the threads only, and leave at least one row of threads before the opening without threads. Be very careful not to leave any part of the tape over the opening. The concern is that a small fragment of tape will tear off and clog some tiny opening in the machine.

I am still looking into options for my machines. To me the lock tight sort of things seem more appropriate. But otherwise, I have used a lot of sealant on standard pipe. I started with the #5 as it was often recommended. At some point it was out of stock and I instead got the tru blu. That is now my go to and I feel a better sealant then the #5. It is a bit more viscous and sets up slightly. Never becomes hard but doesn't stay runny like the #5.

from Loktite 567 TDS

Certified to ANSI/NSF Standard 61 for use in commercial and residential potable water systems not exceeding 82° C.
Please inform the CC tech!!!


from RectorSeal #5 PDS

RectorSeal #5
Meets ANSI LC 7-2009 Working Temperature Range -40°F to 125°F.


Make a Teflon tape wad gasket. Start with 3 wraps at the inlet and then make the tape a string to make a larger wad. If there is a shoulder, so much the better. Never leaks, EVER!



Still holding after 15 years!

I ended up waiting for the Loctite 567 and it worked really well. No leaks and after a day or two of curing, the smell has gone away. Hopefully, this repair will last a long time. It's nice to get the LaSpaziale back in service.

The nice thing about a Teflon gasket is next time, the threads are easily cleaned. Another 3 wraps around the threads and the wad and it's good to go.

Cleaning miracle cures from threads is a PITA.

JohnB. wrote:Rectorseal #5 is rated for service temps up to 350°F.

Where is that information?
World wide I couldn't find a document for RS that lists 350°F for other than flash point