Stripped thread in screw-hole Fellow Ode. Have nobody tried this??

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.

#1: Post by ChrelleGreg »


I was aligning my gen 2 burrs on my Fellow Ode the other day, and somehow managed to destroy/strip the thread in one of the 3 holes on the stationary burr. The one screw just keeps spinning in the hole without tightening. The other ones sits as they should.
Warranty obviously won't cover this but, how come no one on this forum ever experienced this? I'm certain that I didn't use excessive force when tightening the screw, that's why I'm so surprised that I can't find one web forum or site, that covers this subject? And how to fix it?
Have anyone experienced this, and or do you have any tips to what I should do? I might try LocTite Threadlocker.

Any advice would be much appreciated!


#2: Post by coyote-1 »

This is machinery that can, possibly, do significant damage to something or someone if it gets out of control. So I would not mess with this. IMO the fix is to order and install replacements of the damaged part(s).

ChrelleGreg (original poster)

#3: Post by ChrelleGreg (original poster) »

I do agree, but I don't think that it's possible to buy a replacement for the inner burr carrier. That's basically the whole construction of the Ode... :/

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Randy G.

#4: Post by Randy G. »

Disassemble it and take it to a good machine shop. My dad was a machinist. At one place he worked made sound mixing boards for pro work, studios, auditoriums, etc. One hole that held the board onto the cabinet was drilled off center. He made a bolt with an off-cenrter head that they tightened just enough to hold yet be aligned. The hole in the grinder will have to be filled and tapped. I would not use a helicopter or other such insert for this.
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#5: Post by ira »

If there is enough material, just put a insert in it. Helicoil, Keensert or the like. If it's to shallow for that it gets harder.


#6: Post by austinado16 »

As mentioned above, this is a simple fix with a Heli-Coil kit.

Remove the screw and make sure it's threads are not damaged. If they are, the screw will also need to be replaced. Use the screw (or if it's threads are damaged) use one of the other screws, to determine which Heli-Coil kit you need to purchase. For example; the screw might be a 5mm x .80 thread pitch, metric screw. The size up from that is 6mm x 1.0 thread pitch. The size down is 4mm x .70 thread pitch.

Purchase the Heli-Coil kit either online, or from a local automotive parts store. The kit will be labeled with what size drill bit you need to purchase, so make sure to purchase that exact size of drill bit.

You will simply drill out the stripped hole, using the new drill bit.
You will then re-thread the hole, using the special tap that comes in the Heli-Coil kit. You will need a way to hold the tap securely, in order to spin it, and thread it in, and you will need some lubrication for the cutting process, like Tri-Flow. A small pair of vise grips is your friend.

Once the threads are cut, you will used compressed air (air compressor or a can of compressed air) to blow out all the metal chips.

The next step is to thread in the "spring" that comes in the Heli-Coil kit, and again, you will need a way to grab the spring installation tool. A small pair of vise grips is your friend.

Thread the spring in, until the top of it has been spun in to "just below" the surface of the hole.

Final step is to break off and retrieve the metal installation tab, at the very bottom of the spring. Place a thin screw driver into the hole, rest the tip against the tab, and smack the handle of the screwdriver sharply with the handle of another screw driver. Retrieve the tab by blowing it out with compressed air, or turning the machine upside down, etc.

You know have a repaired threaded hole, and it's a permanent solution that is stronger than the originally cut threads.

I know the process above may sound daunting if you don't do this sort of work, but it literally a 5min job. I'm a mechanic and I do Heli-coil repairs all the time, including shallow threads where the Heli-Coil spring is too tall and therefore needs to be cut down.


#7: Post by PaulTheRoaster »

I'd be a little worried about where the swarf (metal shavings) and the helicoil tang end up.


#8: Post by salmotrutta »

Safe bet: machine shop

If you like to live dangerously, just buy a tap and die set. You may be able to just rethread that lower carrier without making it larger or needing a helicoil. You said you didn't wang on it so maybe it's crossthreaded and not totally stripped out.

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#9: Post by Marcelnl »

try rethreading ,helicoil or drilling to the next size and cutting new may need to put an oversized bolt in all three holes to keep vibration down.
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#10: Post by austinado16 »

PaulTheRoaster wrote:I'd be a little worried about where the swarf (metal shavings) and the helicoil tang end up.
You may not have read my post. I specifically detailed how to deal with both.