Stripped Screw Head on Burr Carrier

#1: Post by **HmmThatWorked** » April 25th, 2021, 10:12 pm

Hi All,

I just took apart my Compak E8 to clean out the adjustment threads on the burr carrier since it was getting gummy. I thought I'd pull the burrs at the same time to give it a bit better of a clean & it turns out that one of the screw heads on the bottom carrier is stripped. I've never pulled the grinder apart before so I'm assuming it came that way from the factory. The grinder is out of warranty, what would be your first plan of attack for getting the screw out? I don't want to use my normal impact methods as I'm guessing the lower carrier is mounted directly to the motor & that sounds like a surefire way to damage any bearings.

My burrs are fine so I don't really need to get them out right away but I was planning on replacing them with SSP burrs at some point in time so I will need to get them out eventually.

Thanks,
Chris

#2: Post by **Giampiero** » April 26th, 2021, 3:28 am

First of all, i would remove the burr carrier from the grinder, so any operation will be more easy and without risk to scratch the burrs chamber thread.
Second i will try with a flat tip screwdriver to engage the screw, even worn allen bolt i did remove with a flat tip screwdriver if not sealed with some glue.

#3: Post by **slipchuck** » April 26th, 2021, 8:18 am

Is it a Philips? If it's not completely stripped buy some valve lapping compound and put some in the screw slot and turn. Works in automotive so there is no reason it won't work here

Randy

#4: Post by **Randy G.** » April 26th, 2021, 11:16 am

Without us seeing the extent of the damage it is not possible to give a useful answer. The valve lapping compound may work, but cutting a slot with a rotary tool and a carbide bit, or even drilling out the head may be necessary. It could be that the assembler just slipped with the driver, or possibly even cross threaded the screw and just drove it in anyway causing the damage to the head.

May 6th, 2021, 2:34 pm

Hi All,

Thanks for the responses I'll try the valve lapping compound & the rubber band trick. I'm personally hesitant to to try slotting the screw head, I don't have the best track record with being accurate with a Dremel. If I can't get it out w/o a Dremel I'll take it to a repair center.

Best,
Chris

#6: Post by **ira** » May 6th, 2021, 3:11 pm

If it's a Phillips or hex, and everything fails, you can also try epoxying a bit in place. Make sure it's spotlessly clean and use something like JB Weld and let it set for a couple of days. And don't get it anywhere you want to come apart, it will take only a drop of less as you only have to fill in the gap.

Ira

#7: Post by **slipchuck** » May 6th, 2021, 6:34 pm

If all else fails you can drill it out
Choose a drill smaller then the thread size the screw will fall apart that is what a shop will do
If it's hardened use a cobalt drill

Randy

#8: Post by **daveR1** » May 6th, 2021, 11:52 pm

if the other suggestions don't work, you can always go with an EZ Out extractor. Served me well over the years with motorcycle engines.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMrDYJvY0Ts

August 4th, 2021, 10:34 pm

Sorry its been a long time replying, but I finally took the time to get the damaged screw out today. Now I've run into the question about replacment screws. I contacted Compak & they weren't much help. I found some Stainless m4.7x10 allen bolts that fit but the head is smaller than the OEM screws. Does anyone have any insight if that really matters or where one could get new screws? I tried talking my wife into letting me get SSP burrs you know just to be safe but that didn't fly haha.

#10: Post by **lukehk** » August 4th, 2021, 11:25 pm

Which method worked for getting the screw out?.I have the same problem on a tiny group head screw for my DE. I think it's too small to drill out and I don't have the tools so would be great if one of the others worked out for you.
Thanks