Spark and not heating anymore - Page 3

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
parsa_taheri (original poster)

#21: Post by parsa_taheri (original poster) »

Well this is embarrassing but I literally can't locate another relay in the machine. I've taken the housing off for better access and can't seem to find another

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BaristaBoy E61

#22: Post by BaristaBoy E61 »

Well, installing your SSR in your friend's Duetto II would at least rule in or out whether your SSR is defective or good.

Just be sure to take clear pics of the wiring sequence for easier verification reference!
"You didn't buy an Espresso Machine - You bought a Chemistry Set!"

JRising
Team HB

#23: Post by JRising »

parsa_taheri wrote:Well this is embarrassing but I literally can't locate another relay in the machine. I've taken the housing off for better access and can't seem to find another
No, you had it in your "This it?" pictures. The black SSR with the letters JGX on the front wall next to your gauges. That's your brew boiler's SSR.


That's RL2, controlled by the GicarBoc(RL1) to power the Brew Element on and off.

parsa_taheri (original poster)

#24: Post by parsa_taheri (original poster) »

I'll swap them. If the good machine loses function then would you suggest putting the good SSR in the bad machine to see if it regains function or wound that pose a risk?

parsa_taheri (original poster)

#25: Post by parsa_taheri (original poster) »


Removed the suspected faulty SSR

parsa_taheri (original poster)

#26: Post by parsa_taheri (original poster) »

Put the working ssr in the bad machine. No change. Still does not heat up neither steam or brew boiler

Pressino

#27: Post by Pressino »

That probably means that the SSR is not receiving the proper (or any) DC voltage on it's input terminals. That DC voltage is supposed to come from the PID controller. The small red light is a photodiode that should illuminate when voltage is applied to the input terminals. The cause for no input control DC voltage could be in the PID itself or the Gicar controller.

BTW, here's a YouTube video that shows how to test SSRs using a variable DC voltage supply (or you could just use a 9V battery for a quick test) to activate the input leads (be sure to correctly connect to + and - terminals). Connect hot AC line voltage to one of the output terminals and the other output terminal to some load (or just an AC volt/amp meter) with the neutral AC going to the other load (or meter) terminal. One other thing you should do is check for AC input to one of the output SSR terminals, as it's also possible that AC power to the SSR is out...

parsa_taheri (original poster)

#28: Post by parsa_taheri (original poster) »

Thanks for the reply. The red light is on when the machine is on. However the boilers don't heat up. Could both elements have been toasted at the same time when the spark happened? Or would the high limit prevent that? Also the pid display and functions are working ( I can use it to make changes to the temperature and settings), but the dot that should be flashing to indicate that the boiler is heating is constantly on.

parsa_taheri (original poster)

#29: Post by parsa_taheri (original poster) »

Should I swap the pids between the two machines to rule that out? Also one thing to mention is that my friends pid is in need replacing as well as the display leds are no longer legible. However the unit is functional

Giampiero

#30: Post by Giampiero »

Does somebody with more experience with this machine can confirm if the electric diagram is correct?
The SSR should be for the coffee boiler, but in the diagram is for the steam boiler...and unless i get confused, seems even powered by 110 Vac, while the OP SSR is 4-32 Vdc.
By intuition i'll say that a functionality check of the white power relay should be necessary, but i would not call it RL3 based on the diagram because i don't know if is really wired as the diagram.