jannus wrote:If the overheating only occurred later on when the element was supposed to be switched on it could have pointed to a faulty temperature sensor, but in this case the element isn't even supposed to be on and it's already overheating.
So, if the triac is short-circuit, it's a fairly easy fix.

I agree with Jannus, here. BUT...
Correct me if I'm wrong. I am believing that your machine should NOT be keeping the boiler at some standby temperature when in "standby", our assumption is that the machine just cools to room temp in standby, but I don't know your machine at all...

If we're wrong about this, and the machine does keep the boiler/thermoblock "warm" in standby, then accusing that triac on the big heatsink may be misleading.

Intresting, I am quite sure that the thermoblock/boiler does NOT keep the water warm in standby mode. It cools down as soon as the machine have been used to room temperature.
So with that it could be the triac mounted to the heatsink?

On all the superauto machines I've had, standby is low power. The element is powered down and power consumption is minimal. Some have an in-between mode where they might power down the steam boiler only, but that I've only seen on the larger office-type dual boiler units, and then it's not in standby mode. Perhaps it's easy to confirm with the user manual? Check the standby power rating vs operating power.

jannus wrote:Perhaps it's easy to confirm with the user manual? Check the standby power rating vs operating power.

I found this text in a German manual, its translated with google so mind the translation.

"Low-mass instant water heater with stainless water pipe.
The water temperature is raised throughout the brewing process
readjusted and held almost constant.
The device is ready for operation in less than 30 seconds (incl.
Wash).
The system only heats when it is in use (brewing, hot water or
steam supply), therefore no energy consumption to keep the heat inside stand by.

2 heating circuits parallel to the water pipe for optimal energy yield"

I dont have the skills and tools unfortunately for measuring or doing it my self but do you guys think its worth a shot leaving it with someone who knows what they are doing and change that component?
If we take all above into account.

The triac shouldn't be very costly, and if you have a friend who can solder it can cost you a beer for labour. Even asking someone who does electronic work to test and replace I think should be significantly cheaper than a new machine or new mainboard?

Hey guys! update: bought a triac component, soldered equipment and checked lots of tutorials. managed to replace the component and it WORKED!

Many thanks to all of you for your help and input, I could never have done it without you

Well done! That is good news.
Who said drinking coffee isn't advantageous? Now you have learned to solder, too!
Congrats, enjoy!

Alexander85 wrote:Hey guys! update: bought a triac component, soldered equipment and checked lots of tutorials. managed to replace the component and it WORKED!

Many thanks to all of you for your help and input, I could never have done it without you

That's exactly WHY we do it. I'm happy alongside you now!
Good work, Alexander. A triac as your first attempt at soldering a component to a circuit board is not an easy job. Go enjoy the fruits of your labours!

I don't see anything that looks obviously wrong in any of the attached pics.
I would start by scanning the QR Code on that board and doing a search with the numbers under the QR Code to see what that turns up.