Noticed that the top of the machine is still very hot hours after turning the machine off (still plugged in and on at the socket). The steam wand also drips.

I've opened up the machine and could see scale on top of the steam boiler from a leaky connection. Thought maybe water/steam was getting to the electrical board directly above and that was perhaps making it stay on.

I've replaced the o-rings on two of the pipes going into the steam boiler and turned the machine on with the top propped open. I can't see any leaking and the top doesn't get hot, let alone stay hot...but perhaps it's always just been passive heat from the boiler when the top is down. The steam wand continues to drip and I've realised that I'm able to operate the steam wand even when the machine is off. It'll go on and on and on, so it's not just residual steam.

I've read a similar post that started out with this issue (steam boiler staying hot) but in their case after descaling they ended up with no steam at all and it turned out to be a fuse issue. Maybe it's along those lines? Any suggestions very welcome.

Thanks, Jake

I'm sure Peter will be along shortly with the definitive answer but, I seem to recall this being a symptom of moisture from a leaky o-ring getting into the electronics. Try unplugging it, leave the top off till it has time to dry out then start it up with the top off and supported. If the steam boiler stays hot after shutting it off with the switch, then you will know I am way off base! If it cools down then you can start looking for the leaky o-ring, or just replace them all as a matter of course.

Hi

I've got the same problem. Did this fix the issue?

Is there a guide to do the repair anywhere with specs for the spare parts? I've not had a lot of luck finding that info. Sage don't seem to encourage that.

Thanks
Ian

Hi all,

I have the exact same issue. BDB plugged into to a switched on wall socked but powered off, and the top of the BDB it gets red hot. I suspect its something to do with the power module attached to the top. Has a good dig around today and replaced some O-Rings but saw nothing else that appeared to be an issue.

I also today got a runaway heating issue all the way to 110C when I switched it all off today its no coincidence in my mind.

Very confused

Any advice?

Martin

I've just got around to replacing all the o rings, there's definitely been multiple leaks on the steam boiler.

After round one of replacements I've plugged the machine in (not turned on at the machine) with the lid off so I can check and the steam boiler is heating. I still have a leak on the tube to the steam wand but not sure why, I may need to replace the tube, can't see a split at the moment. My bigger concern is why is the steam boiler heating with the machine off?

How do I go about troubleshooting that and fixing?

Have this issue too after leaking oring replaced on steam boiler.

Has been a lot of condensation inside the machine prior to oring change. I had assumed it was latent heat from the steam escaping.

At the same time steam pressure is now immense so suspect boiler is continuously being heated even when machine is off from front panel but powered via socket??

Any help would be v helpful before I get my multi meter out.

Some more observations.

Unplugged overnight. Both boilers cold to touch in morning. Tuned on at wall socket but kept machine off at front panel. Steam boiler started heating up straight away, warm to touch in a few seconds. Can see from power meter that in an off state the machine is pulling approx 700watts. !!

Concerning point to me now is that in this state boiler water leve sensor is not powered / working so boiler liable to dry up and element continue heating!!

Another few observations. Temp sensor seems to be working as the light on the front that represents when steam being supplied at temperature does not illuminate if I turn on steam when machine is freshly tuned on (from wall and front panel) but does after about 60sec which would indicate to me that the temp sensor is working.

Also, from monitoring the machines power usage there was a time where the power draw fell back to 30watts which might not support my theory below...

I don't know the anatomy of these machines like others on this forum but this feels like there is a relay that is stuck closed that drives the steam boiler (save my comment above about power usage falling back from 700w momentarily).

Anyway hope some others have sorted this. At the moment I keep it turned off at the wall when not using.

Hope this will help anyone with this issue.

I had the same with my machine and issue is with the TRIAC PCB Assembly (the board mounted on the top lid); I think one of the switching transistors failed closed which causes the boiler to continually heat regardless if the machine is off but plugged in at the wall.

I replaced this board today and has solved the issue. Fairly simple replacement procedure if you're electronically minded; you only need the board, a few wire nuts and zip ties.

Here's a link to the part I purchased (this is in Australia though) https://spares.bigwarehouse.com.au/prod ... id=3921136

Thank you for the tip. I suspected it was a "relay" issue. I removed the triac pcb, tested the triacs and one of them is done...
I ordered a new triac - Mfr#BTA06T-600CWRG. It's about $1.7 - hopefully everything else on the IC is ok... We'll see in 5 days.

Seems many of these posts are from people in the UK. Is it possibly the wall plug is in upside down? Neutral to phase and verse visa? Like the same issue with the over-electronic Silvias?
I may be suggesting an impossible notion, I don't know the wall plugs on UK Brevilles, in North America appliances can't be plugged in backwards, I was surprised to hear that Brevilles can in UK yesterday.
Rancilio Silvia E heating when turned off