Rocket Appartamento not maintaining steam pressure - Page 2

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
nelson (original poster)

#11: Post by nelson (original poster) »

So you think its the powerboard but agree it makes sense to try swapping the pstat first, right?
By sacrificial you mean paying for one that isn't necessary? A broken powerboard won't ruin the new pstat or anything, right?


#12: Post by JRising »

By Sacrificial I mean the part that's expected to burn out. Some machines have the pressostat controlling a cheap relay that's easily accessible with just one panel open. The low current through the p-stat means that it won't arc, build up carbon and burn, the relay is handling the high-current and will burn up in time but will have protected the more expensive pressostat.
Unfortunately, the earlier years of Appartamentos were wired with the pressostat controlling the powerboard's element relay, not some external cheap relay, so that in time the powerboard needs surgery or replacement.

There are threads on these forums about wiring the pressostat to sacrifice itself rather than the powerboard if you're interested in going that way. If you or a good friend has a steady soldering hand, the relay that needs replacing is the big obvious one on the board.

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nelson (original poster)

#13: Post by nelson (original poster) »

Ah, thanks, that makes sense!

As I was removing the board I noticed this on the side, saying if I don't have a pressurestat I can put a jumper on there.

I'm thinking: if the relay is burnt, putting the jumper won't change anything.
If the pressurestat is broken, putting the jumper would cause it to start pressurizing, so I would know it's the pressurestat.

Does that logic make sense? I'm thinking it might be an easy test before I go buy a new part.

Also, any idea how to get the board out of this enclosure? Its crammed in really tight and I don't want to pull on anything and break it.

nelson (original poster)

#14: Post by nelson (original poster) »

Alright, so I started it up and jumped the pressure switch connections on the board, and the relay toggles on. When I remove the jump it turns the relay off. So seems like the relay is working.
Next I plugged the pressurestat back in, and of course it was working fine now.

This makes me think probably it's the pressurestat, and it was kinda sticky and getting stuck. So for now I'll reassemble the machine and order a new pressurestat so that if it ends up failing soon I can swap it out.


#15: Post by JRising »

I think I disagree. But I'm not there to see what you saw. The pressostat is a closed switch when boiler pressure isn't forcing it open, so it's the same as a jumper until 1.1 Bar. If you can remove and reattach one of the connections to the pressostat without it affecting that relay, or if you can read anything higher than .8 ohms fron NC to C on that pressostat when the boiler is at atmospheric, then I'll agree that the pressostat is bad.

I think your wiggling of the board and tapping to get it to slide out of the plastic housing got the relay to work again until the next time it gets hot. Once hot, the miniature little copper arms won't move perfectly and the contact points will not make contact when the relay is activated. But time will tell. Congratulations, anyway if it is working again.

nelson (original poster)

#16: Post by nelson (original poster) »

Well this morning it didn't start again!

Your argument makes sense. I'm going to just order both parts and see which it is, I don't feel like having to wait twice on shipping and I agree now it's more likely to be the board.

I'll update in a week or so when I get the parts.

Thanks for the help on this!


#17: Post by JRising »

Sorry to hear that, it's not a cheap box to replace. You may want to read a similar thread and consider wiring the machine to burn pressostats rather than powerboard relays.

This might be worth reading. [Rocket Appartamento] Pressure/heating problem As you can see, certain issues are not uncommon for certain machines. People recognizing the issue is why these forums are great.

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nelson (original poster)

#18: Post by nelson (original poster) »

Do you happen to know of any threads that get into detail on how to wire it like that? I did some searches but couldn't find it.

I'm not great at soldering myself but have a friend who is, so maybe I can get him to mod my old board while I have the new one in.


#19: Post by JRising »

It starts off wired with the Pressostat controlling the Powerboard.

The simplest way is to take both skinny wires off of the pressostat. At this point (Open pstat signal) the relay on the board will never give power to the element.

Then cut the wire between the powerboard and the element (Actually probably going to the safety thermostat on the boiler and then to the element). Make sure to cut it so that both cut ends can reach the C (Common) and the NC (Normally Closed) terminals of the Pressostat (The terminals formerly used by the skinny wires).

Lastly, you can put a jumper on the Board's pressostat pins so that when the reservoir has water, the board is always powering the Pressostat which in turn will switch the power to the element as needed. Thus the little microswitch on the P-Stat is switching the heavy load and burning itself out rather than the relay on the powerboard.

Replacing the pressostat every couple of years is cheaper than the powerboard. Replacing just the little microswitch on the side of the P-Stat is even cheaper. Finding the good ones that don't give too much deadband isn't always easy.

nelson (original poster)

#20: Post by nelson (original poster) »

Awesome, thanks!

Looks like I just need to do some wire splicing and don't even need to solder on a new relay or anything, that doesn't seem too difficult.
I'll probably do that after making sure which part of mine burnt out.

At first I was thinking maybe the switch can't handle the full voltage but looks like its rated for it.

Appreciate you taking the time to draw those out for me.