Rocket Appartamento not heating - Page 2

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
JRising
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#11: Post by JRising »



Unplug the machine, loosen this screw 2 turns, and you can take the whole powerboard out of the machine and lay it, sticker side up, next to the machine...



Then, working SAFELY, no metal tools balanced precariously, plug the machine back in and turn it on, you'll hear the click.
With the multimeter set to AC Voltage 250V V~ you can measure that the box is getting the proper 240VAC between P and N (Phase and Neutral, Rightmost and third from right) You can touch the leads to the little screws in the green connector, they're live in the circuit. Because you heard the relay click you should also get the 2450VAC between Resist and N (Second from right and third from right in picture). If you don't have 240VAC between Resist and N, you've proven that the relay on the powerboard is burnt.

Please read the above carefully, don't do anything dangerous with a live machine. Don't leave it plugged in after the test, you may forget. Don't even do it if you're not comfortable.

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BaristaBoy E61
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#12: Post by BaristaBoy E61 »

musica wrote:Anyway I got my hands on one and did the simple tests outlined video, and the readings are 48 Ω for the Heating Element and 1 Ω for each of the high limit switches. Is that sufficient information to prove it's the control board?

According to the info provided, 230vac and a heating element resistance of 48ohms, your heating element should be about 1100watts. High limit resets measure OK.

BTW: For future reference, when taking pictures of test procedures please include the entire dial scale of the measuring instrument so that we don't have to guess where the exact setting/range was set at. TNX
"You didn't buy an Espresso Machine - You bought a Chemistry Set!"

musica (original poster)
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#13: Post by musica (original poster) »

JRising wrote:Unplug the machine, loosen this screw 2 turns, and you can take the whole powerboard out of the machine and lay it, sticker side up, next to the machine...


Then, working SAFELY, no metal tools balanced precariously, plug the machine back in and turn it on, you'll hear the click.
With the multimeter set to AC Voltage 250V V~ you can measure that the box is getting the proper 240VAC between P and N (Phase and Neutral, Rightmost and third from right) You can touch the leads to the little screws in the green connector, they're live in the circuit. Because you heard the relay click you should also get the 2450VAC between Resist and N (Second from right and third from right in picture). If you don't have 240VAC between Resist and N, you've proven that the relay on the powerboard is burnt.

Please read the above carefully, don't do anything dangerous with a live machine. Don't leave it plugged in after the test, you may forget. Don't even do it if you're not comfortable.

I'm assuming "Resistance" corresponds to "Heating" on my box, and P and N to F and N respectively. I'll give it a go.

EDIT: just did. Here are the results:


musica (original poster)
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#14: Post by musica (original poster) »

BaristaBoy E61 wrote: According to the info provided, 230vac and a heating element resistance of 48ohms, your heating element should be about 1100watts.
Is that the wattage it's supposed to be?
BTW: For future reference, when taking pictures of test procedures please include the entire dial scale of the measuring instrument so that we don't have to guess where the exact setting/range was set at. TNX
It was set at 200.

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BaristaBoy E61
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#15: Post by BaristaBoy E61 »

musica wrote:Is that the wattage it's supposed to be?


It was set at 200.
At 230vac as indicated on the link to the controller pic, 48ohm equates to 1100-watts. At 240vac the same 48ohms equates to 1200watts as the machines specs indicate. You can take your pick based on actual measured line voltage.

I figured the meter was set on 200 to 400 ohm range but why have to guess; better to know. It's not a big deal but it's better to assist those trying to help.
"You didn't buy an Espresso Machine - You bought a Chemistry Set!"

JRising
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#16: Post by JRising »

Your voltage test just showed the powerboard as working properly... Your second pic shows 240 V at the wire going straight to the black-wire safety then to the element...
Measure voltage across the element, SAFELY, with the power on?

It is possible that the wiggling around of the powerboard/box has allowed that relay to make contact again, until it burns worse... If you leave it on, is it heating again?

Nunas
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#17: Post by Nunas »

musica wrote:Is that the wattage it's supposed to be?<snip>.
There's no reliable answer to this question. An important word in Steve's (BaristaBoy) reply is about. You can't measure the cold resistance of a heater, apply ohms law and come up with a match to the power stated on the nomenclature plate. As heaters warm up, the resistance changes, which changes the power consumed. The plate shows the power when working (hot), not when cold.

musica (original poster)
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#18: Post by musica (original poster) »

JRising wrote:Your voltage test just showed the powerboard as working properly... Your second pic shows 240 V at the wire going straight to the black-wire safety then to the element...
Measure voltage across the element, SAFELY, with the power on?

It is possible that the wiggling around of the powerboard/box has allowed that relay to make contact again, until it burns worse... If you leave it on, is it heating again?
I measured voltage across the Heating Element at around 250 and it does seem to heat now. I guess I should still get another control board. How does one install a solid state relay? What does it do better?

musica (original poster)
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#19: Post by musica (original poster) »

Nunas wrote:There's no reliable answer to this question. An important word in Steve's (BaristaBoy) reply is about. You can't measure the cold resistance of a heater, apply ohms law and come up with a match to the power stated on the nomenclature plate. As heaters warm up, the resistance changes, which changes the power consumed. The plate shows the power when working (hot), not when cold.
I guess what I meant is, does that mean it's working properly or not? I suppose it is.

JRising
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#20: Post by JRising replying to musica »

Yes, your 48 ohms is absolutely reasonable for a 240 Volt machine's element.