Roaster, situation demands I use an extension cord - Page 2

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
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#11: Post by pizzaman383 »

Generally, the plug and sockets in a 15-amp cord are rated at 15 amps and since most household outlets are rated at 15 amps most extension cords are also built for that. I stopped my Amazon search at the first short 20amp extension cord I saw. There are probably 20amp 10 gauge cords in the short length. I look for 20 amp when looking for high current extension cords.
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#12: Post by Davi-L »

The simple thing that I've learned about extension cords is that the answer is at the end of your arm.
I feel the cord and the plugs and if they are about ambient temperature, then all is OK.
If they are hot, then get a better one. It's hard to pick by brand name. They are not consistent.

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#13: Post by Marcelnl »

by the time an extension cord gets hot to the touch you are losing serious power IMO.
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#14: Post by ira »

It's not the 10ga that's rated 15amps, it's the plug that's rated 15 amps. With bigger plugs, 12ga would likely be rated 20amps and 10ga will likely be rated either 25 or 30 amps.


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#15: Post by Jeff »

If you look carefully at a "20 A" extension cord, you should see the plug has one of the two blades rotated 90° from a typical 15 A plug and the receptacle(s) have a T-shaped slot on one side. A 15 A plug or a 20 A plug will fit into a 20 A receptacle. A 20 A plug will not fit into a 15 A receptacle.


#16: Post by SutterMill »

Nunas wrote:The SR800 has a powerful heater that stresses the typical 15-ampere circuit near its limit. Operation of the roaster is best on having the proper (~120) voltage. You should avoid extension cords if you can. If you can't, then, if you can possibly manage it, use the shortest, thickest gauge extension cord you can get. Also, bear in mind that the house/apartment wiring is also a factor. If you have the option, plug into the receptacle with the shortest run to the load centre (fuse box). My son just bought an SR800 on my recommendation (I had two older SR roasters). He reports best results with the highest voltage possible at the roaster. Buwenas!
Just my opinion but this a great answer. Granted I've only used a kill-a-watt meter to test but if memory serves correctly the difference between a 15amp outlet and a 15amp outlet with 25ft ext cord was around 200 watts. I think I could only pull 1325-1350 watts on a lower rated cord*. The same plug without the ext cord was 1535+ watt.
You have the right idea. Use the thickest possible gauge.

You may be inclined toil go with much smaller batches l, but I've found before 4-5oz and you end up with to much airflow cooler temps

The one 20watt plug I usually drag my setup out to I pull 1735-1750watts consistently.

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#17: Post by ira »

Without telling up what 25' extension cord, it's hard to know what that means. A outlet connected to a 15 amp breaker can be wired with 14ga wire, for a 20 amp breaker you need to use 12 ga wire. When I wired my wet bar for 220 I used 10 ga because it was a very short run and I would never have to think about it no matter what I put there. If you lost 10 volts from using a 25' extension cord, something is very wrong and conceptually something would have been getting very hot.


#18: Post by sketcher88 »

To be totally honest, and if it's not used all the time, you could also use construction wire (so not cable, as found in an extension cord). The wire is cheaper as it's one piece of copper for each conductor rather than many strands making up a cable, and I'd just go heavier gauge on that. The issue is that over time, it's not meant to flex and so you could eventually see issues after many uses, but if it's going to be almost permanent, using heavier gauge wire will work well.


#19: Post by randytsuch »

My house is wired with 12 gauge for all the AC wiring.

So since that's what is getting the electricity from panel to outlet I'd use #12 for the extension cord too, but that's just my opinion.


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#20: Post by Marcelnl » replying to randytsuch »

Not sure if I can follow that logic, adding wire length for the extention cord plus resistance in the outlet/plug adds to the overall resistance adding to power loss and heat production (if there is a significant power loss/voltage drop).

just verify what power will be drawn (and verify what the wiring in the wall is to be sure that is sufficient), and do the math; ... lator.html
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