Looks a lot like casting flaws that have been there since the day it was made.

Ira

Tonight all chrome parts got buffed. It gives you a good feeling when you see the result and it's lika mirror.

Hopper before


Hopper after


Flywheel before


Flywheel after


Hander before



Handel after




The flywheel has got quite a few cracks in the chrome layer, but it is a 60 year old grinder. I might leave it like this...

I don't have a production year on the grinder yet. The condensor on the motor is dated 1981 (I think), but I got a second opinion from the belt. It indicates it's from 1950... B 45 is the model and lenght.

try those soapy steel wool pads from every supermarket.

they wont scratch chrome, shine up aluminium and remove stains, dirt, grease and rust very efficiently, and leave a very clean surface, perfect for more polishing with compounds. and they are very, very cheap. maybe this will help with the rust spots on your flywheel.

(I usually use these pads on the chrome rims from my hondas, but they also work very well on cast aluminium engine covers, and both the brassy inside and the chromed outside of my olympia club groups.)

Thank you for the tips.
I think I will try both methods on the Flywheel. Just need to go and by some Steel Wool...
//Simon

Hi!

I joined a Danish Coffee & Espressogroup on Facebook, posted photos and my story, and I got some useful info on the grinder.
It is a Kvaerna Teak grider. Used primarly in groceryshops. It was in production from 1950 to 1998. That means that my grinder could be from the earlier end. There was one comment from a person that has the same model with the same model plate as mine. His one is dated 1958.

It has been a few weeks since my last update, but I have done some progress. The outer burrs has been cleand with steel wool and soap. I have tried to sharpen the coarse burr a bit, but it is in decent condition. The fine burr is to hard to sharpen. The burrs are not razor sharp, but ok.






Next project is to add a new finish to the wood box and re-paint the grinder housing

Hi!
The wood box has been gently sanded and a new layer of varnish on top. The Teak plywood was so thin, that I decided not to sand it to hard. I think it will be a nice looking wood box once the varnish has dried.



The housing has been painted with a base colour, but i have not decided if I go for a copper or black housing. Both colours has been used on this grinder.
The burr set is back in the housing. One new bearing is also in place but I still has to buy a 6304 bearing. I have also bought a new B45 belt from Optibelt.

The wires from the motor to the new capacitor has been updated, the contactor has also been cleaned and the old wires has een replaced with new ones. It is a robust Danfoss contactor with big metal plates inside. It does just klick, it hits when the switch is in ON position. The motor is now back in the box.





I bought a new cord from a vintage shop, hopefully it will match the teak box