Replace or mod a failing Gicar keypad?

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
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RistrettoCapp
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#1: Post by RistrettoCapp »

I'm putting the finishing touches on a La Spaziale Professionale Double Boiler with volumetric controller.
Even though the keypad shows 5 options, 1/2 single, 1/2 double and manual brew... it only feels like there are 3 buttons under the membranes.
I read another post re: Fiorenzato Bricoletta's silly touchpad that had the same issue, PM'd the OP and awaiting a reply.

I've located a replacement at just under $100, IF this is an issue with my keypad just being old... but rather not throw a new keypad at if if I'm using it wrong...

I'm also open to just removing the keypad and replacing it with buttons to brew (similar to the look of the Ascaso Baby T maybe)... but I'll either need to sacrifice the keypad to solder into the board and connect new buttons OR know the wiring to the GICAR controller to replace the keypad altogether.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

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BaristaBoy E61
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#2: Post by BaristaBoy E61 »

Might depend on the construction of the key pad material. Is it conducive rubber like a TV remote control or something else?

A picture of the internals showing the contact materials might be helpful.
"You didn't buy an Espresso Machine - You bought a Chemistry Set!"

ira
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#3: Post by ira »

This is always my take on things like this. It's already broken so trying to fix it or even just trying to diagnose it has at worst a small downside and potentially a very large upside. Which is why I get asked to fix all kinds of things, many of which I manage to fix.

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Jeff
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#4: Post by Jeff »

I'd "try the usual" before spending a big chunk on a replacement. It may be as simple as cleaning the contacts.

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RistrettoCapp (original poster)
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#5: Post by RistrettoCapp (original poster) »

Okay, so I removed the keypad from the machine and it appears that 1) this is a tactile button and not a membrane keypad and 2) that the buttons themselves have not failed, instead it's that the keypad housing has become brittle and pressing the button resulting in the circuit board breaking away from the front of the keypad - so a press on the membrane would not actually reach the tactile button..

here are some pics:




I'm debating on whether to replace the keypad itself or just tap into the tactile buttons and place nicer buttons on the faceplate...

After testing the buttons:
I have concluded that the buttons are DPST momentary buttons, they do NOT have a top/bottom depression option.. and selecting the second option of the keypad must be done with a SECOND press of the button.
★ Helpful

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BaristaBoy E61
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#6: Post by BaristaBoy E61 »

Might it be possible to 3D print a replacement for the defective part?
"You didn't buy an Espresso Machine - You bought a Chemistry Set!"

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RistrettoCapp (original poster)
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#7: Post by RistrettoCapp (original poster) replying to BaristaBoy E61 »

Actually, that's a really good idea.. hadn't thought of that (mainly because I don't have a 3D printer, but I could design it and send it out for printing..hmmm)

Thanks for the suggestion.. I'll have to think about that some

ira
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#8: Post by ira »

Or, if you can find a suitable slippery plastic pin, something epoxy doesn't stick to, you could place it in the hole and rebuild the boss with epoxy. or you can just rebuild it and drill a new hole but without a drill press that might be hard. I don't see how it goes together and if the OD of the boss needs to be perfect, but if not, that should work. Usually when I do that I try to place some pieces of carpet thread in the epoxy and glue them to the sides to help it stay.

Pressino
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#9: Post by Pressino »

How about just temporarily gluing a suitably sized plastic disk on top of those three switch buttons, reassembling the overlay, and seeing if you now can activate the switches? If it works well, you can use a more durable glue.

LAllen
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#10: Post by LAllen »

I just purchased a new one of these switches modules from 1st line and was planning to print the plastic to replace my old switch since this is a fairly common point of failure. The factory version lasts me about 5 years it seems and then the plastic disintegrates from the heat. I found this thread when I was looking to see if someone already had a model but didn't find anything so am in the process of creating a model for the mount myself. I'm not sure that PLA will last for very long in the heat but figured I would try it and may use some other filament once I get the model dialed. Since you were looking at this earlier this year I figured I would post in case you still needed a solution and yes you figured out the trick to the 5 function part of the switch, single press and the LED will flash and fill to the programmed setting 2 press and it seems to do 2x the setting and the LED stays on solid.

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