mhayze wrote:Good stuff. Regarding the drift, in the review, there was a mention that the Urbanic could benefit from the "tape mod" to avoid drift if made stepless - I assume that is what you did with the teflon tape? I just got mine, so thank you for paving the way, plan to align burrs and make mine stepless too this weekend.

One thing I didn't do with mine, that I wished I had.. My stationary burr was quite bad.. I had to use 8 layers of tinfoil.. I wish I had just rotated burr 180 deg and check the alignment in that position. Maybe that would have required less shimming.. Also make sure to get the unit absolutely clean of coffee when aligning the burr.

I haven't done the stepless mod on my 070s, but have checked the alignment. The rotary burr is stock from the factory, and the wipe in the photo seems about about 75-80%. Should I bother shimming this burr, or is that satisfactory? I use the grinder for drip or Aeropress only... I will definitely have to shim the stationary burr as it was quite bad, only about 25% wiped. Thanks for any suggestions.

If you get 80%, I think I'd leave it.. the stationary burr will require more shimming.. also.. I noticed a bit of play in my shaft which will affect the stationary burr.. any play in this shaft and the stationary burr can not be exactly aligned .. so just get that one 80% as well..

Sounds good. As a side point, although I'm not totally certain, it seems to me that depending on how the rotary burr is put back on the shaft, it could affect the wipe due to balance issues. I'll be putting a reference mark on the shaft and rotary burr so it is always placed in the same orientation when reassembled after cleaning.

I have an idea for a modification. It is to place a secondary metal plate with far more detents over the existing detent disk. This would mitigate the 'drift' that is inevitable with the Teflon tape modification. It would not be infinite, but it could provide perhaps 40 or more positions (as opposed to the existing 20). I would lock the new plate into the detents in the existing disk so it does not drift. The likelihood is that, since I use this grinder only for espresso, I would only increase the detents in the "espresso zone".

@bluenoser: The issue is the existing knob. Am I seeing correctly from above that the plastic knob has only a sticker, with no screw holding it in place? If so, then I would not need to remove the sticker... right? I could just turn the knob clockwise and lift, and it should come off?? I do not want to try this without knowing, as I have no desire to break the knob.

And then - does anyone know the thread of the screw hole? Might be good, after removing the knob, to make it more secure when putting it back together.

Thanks for looking!

And after doing some searching, I see my general idea has already been done! Not unexpected, as good ideas ultimately have to surface. Here it is

Inexpensive Chinese Ghost Burr Grinder

Posted right in this very forum! Awesome

It's done. Knew I had saved those old 3.5" floppy disks for something.... the sliding aluminum cover is as thin as you can get while remaining rigid. Perfect raw material. It threads on perfectly.

I should point out the answer to my question: there is a retaining screw underneath the sticker on the front of the dial. So you do need to peel that sticker back, at least far enough to remove the screw.

First I drilled a small hole, then a larger hole. Then I used various tapered Dremel grinders to widen the hole, then used the Dremel cutting wheel to shape the outside edge before also grinding that. I cut a notch for the one 'key' tab to fit into.... no indents. Infinite adjustment. No recalibration needed, as the mechanism returns to its original position.