My Astoria Argenta is a huge beast, wired for 220, and I'm using a very large step-up transformer that is able to handle the load to the heating element. The problem comes in when I push the button that energizes the group head solenoids. Doing so causes the transformer to blow an internal fuse.

I've used machines before that cut power to the boiler when the pressure pump is in use, but this machine doesn't have that. Can anyone recommend a type of relay that would be triggered by the voltage coming in from the pressure pump (preferably using 220V signal voltage) and would cut power to the heating element?

Thanks

Conceptually, something like this:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Sc ... ly8w%3D%3D

Ira

Maybe the fuse needs to be replaced with a slo blo type?

It is rather odd that a fractional HP pump and solenoid would tip the balance and blow a fuse. A 10% increase in amps can cause a fuse to blow. But very slowly - minutes if not more.

Hence I suspect it is field setup currents in the coils and a slo blo fuse should be able to handle this.

May be simpler to ditch the step-up transformer and just have the outlet wired for 220V. Most US homes have 220V service.

I'm refurbishing it for resale, and I don't want to get 220 service just to test this one machine. I'd also like to think that whoever buys it could use it in a coffee kiosk or other small venue that doesn't have 220 service.

Tried the slo-blow, but it didn't do the trick. I guess I could just use a rocker switch, but I'd rather have it automated.

Sounds like I'll have to educate myself more on terms like DPDT-NO, NC.

Sorry, here's what all those letters stand for. Hopefully this will let you understand all the one's you come across.

DPDT Double pole, double throw
SPST Single pole single throw
NO normally open
NC normally closed

You can bodge up 220v is you have two 120v outlets close by that are on opposite LEGS of the breaker panel.

Edit: changed sides to LEGS. Breakers on the same row are on the same LEG of the 220v.

cafeIKE wrote:You can bodge up 220v is you have two 120v outlets close by that are on opposite sides of the breaker panel.

I think I get what you are suggesting (take the two 120V hots and the join the two neutrals in a new 220V outlet box), but would there be a problem with the gauge (usually 14 or 12 gauge) of the wires you'd be using to get to the new 220v box??

14ga is typical for 15a circuits like lights, 12ga for 20A. Some places are wired with 12ga to multiple 15A sockets with a 20A breaker, allowing multiple heavy current devices, like waffle maker and toaster to operate.

Breaker panels are arranged so that LR pairs of 120V breakers are on the same half of the 220v feed.
The breaker row below is on the alternate leg. You need a circuit from each leg.


Breaker row and legs A or B
1 A 2
3 B 4
5 A 6
7 B 8
9 A 10
11 B 12
13 A 14
15 B 16
17 A 18
19 B 20
...

With 2x 120 plugs, connect one black to X and the other black to Y. Both whites go to the neutral terminal if there is one
BOTH Green MUST be connected to G


The current capacity is that of the source breakers, which should be identical

Proceed at your own risk

Your diagrams confirm that I understood exactly what you were suggesting about using two nearby 120V outlets to create a new 220V outlet. I have experience installing new 220V outlets by running lines directly from the breaker panel, and even for outlets rated at 15A I preferred 12ga lines. For everything else I used heavier gauge wire (e.g. 10ga for 30A and progressively lower gauge for heavier draws). I don't know what the current draw for the OP's machine is, but I'm guessing he's going to need at minimum 12ga wiring on the new circuit. What I was wondering about is, given that the 120V outlet circuits could be as thin as 14ga, could combining them in a new outlet, even if you run lower gauge wires from their source points in the 120V boxes put excessive current through the source lines that are wired back to the panel? I know each comes off a different panel bus and the current draws should be the same, but as you know there are things that can cause current imbalance in such circuits. I suppose I could think more about it and come up with the correct answer (regarding the safety of such a set up), but I thought you might know for sure.