Relay to cut power to boiler when using pump and group solenoids? - Page 2

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
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AssafL
Posts: 2588
Joined: 14 years ago

#11: Post by AssafL »

If it works for the draw at 110v it will be ample gauge for 220v. The current will be halved for the same wattage.

So I wouldn't fret the gauge.

At 220v you have to fret insulation as 220v AC is significantly more dangerous than 110v AC.

(The main trade off between European 220v and US 110v is electrocution risk vs fire risk. Higher amperage at 110v is a fire risk - hence the metal fuse boxes and pipe work - while at 220v it is making contact with live - hence the plastic pipes and fuse boxes.)

I am perplexed that slo blo didn't make it right. The pump and solenoid are low power consumers - it makes no sense to me. Maybe there is another issue there...
Scraping away (slowly) at the tyranny of biases and dogma.

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cafeIKE
Posts: 4726
Joined: 18 years ago

#12: Post by cafeIKE »

If the circuits are 20A at the panel, 12ga should have been run to all outlets, whether 15A or 20A.

The machine is likely 20A which can be determined by the plug or name plate.

DoctorTrombone (original poster)
Posts: 19
Joined: 3 years ago

#13: Post by DoctorTrombone (original poster) »

Not really interested in messing around in the breaker box. If it came down to it, I could run 220v extension cord from the dryer to the back room where the machine is being worked on.

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cafeIKE
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Joined: 18 years ago

#14: Post by cafeIKE »

A 220v extension would work fine, depending on the distance, availability and cost.

BUT, there is no need to mess in the breaker box. You simply have to find two 110v sockets, the first being on an ODD breaker row and the other on an EVEN breaker row. The two circuits can be far apart in number as long as one row is even and the row other is odd.

This is not a permanent install, but only a troubleshooting or test tool. I used one a couple of weeks back to test a neighbors 220v waterfall pump. Wired correctly, it's safe.

When using the device, it is best to have the load device unplugged, plug in each of the feed legs, then plug in and power on the DUT.

DoctorTrombone (original poster)
Posts: 19
Joined: 3 years ago

#15: Post by DoctorTrombone (original poster) »

Aha. An epiphany.

I'd been trying to preserve the use of the original switches, but since it's only for testing purposes, I figured I could wire these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/buy/thankyou/ ... sRefresh=1

Instead of a push switch, it would require a rotation of a knob which would disconnect power to the heating element every time the brew function was on.

Sadly, it means I can't use my ultra-cool purchase from Ali Express:



Original is the red one. Replacements have little espresso cups that light up.

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