Unfortunately, the lower front faceplate is only fitted to dosing machines. My CD semi automatic machine doesn't have one. Based on the description and orientation of the part in the parts manual, I believe it is mounted behind the switch plate on the main machine frame uprights. The flange in your hand should face forward, with the visible cutout fitting around the discharge muffler of the right group and the discharge tube from the boiler safety valve. There should be a smaller cutout for the left group's discharge muffler behind your hand, no?

My switch install is highlighted in the post below:
My short and concise build to preinfusion/pressure profiling

Your frame looks a wee bit different than mine, but there appears to be a nice spot between the steam wand and the left group you could snag.

Let us know of that panel fits where I think it should,

Cheers!

- Jake

Great job! I rebuilt a Promac a couple of years ago. Very similar to your unit. Enjoy it!!

Promac Green UP SCME 2 Restoration

Jake, you where absolutely right about the placement!
I needed to follow your description to the point to find the place. I didn't see the mounting holes before I held it on place. But when it sits there its verry obvious.


Thanks a lot!!!
Also, its a good idea to put the switch at your location! Discrete =)

And GeoffH, I read your thread! Impressive restoration on that short schedule. As you say, its very like mine on the inside and they seem to share a lot of parts. Your machine looks awesome! I almost regret that i just painted mine black! How did you polish the stainless? any tips

Looking very good!

What grinder are you pairing it with? Also, did you end up installing one restrictor and leaving one out or did you install them both? I'm very curious what the difference in group temp will be between the two groups... It would be great to have a dark roast, cool temp, no preinfusion side and a light roast, high temp, line pressure preinfusion side... I'm debating installing a restrictor on my right group, but will wait to finish my profiling mods first.

Cheers!

- Jake

I stopped by a local metal polisher that does metal polishing for hot rods etc. Chatted him up for a few minutes. He only charged me like $40 to polish everything. Pretty quick and easy job as it was only a few pieces and they were all flat stainless. He just hit them with a color wheel and they shined right up.

G

Yes Jake, I follow your advice and use only one restrictor =) Hopefully I can give you some input when I getting used to the machine.
I have an big Aristaco EMA80 grinder. Probably a bit unusual but it has big burrs and it seems to be grinding consistently. Otherwise I don't know much about it. Looks like this:


I also got an Rancilio MD50 with the Purchase of the espresso machine, but I don't think that I will keep that one. I have more trust in the Aristaco.
What are your opinion?

It would be nice as a next project to make the Atistaco Doserless and run it with a microcontroller in a closed loop with feedback from a force transducer under the portafilter.
But at first i guess I'm starting with manual dosing and a kitchen scale.

I noticed that the machine is 5mm higher than what can fit under my kichen cabinets, so i made some lower feets for the machine in an FDM printer. It turned out pretty good at first attempt=)

Maybe i will have to go over the panels with some polishing... haven't decided yet. Now its more like brushed look but Geoff's machine looked awesome with polished panels...

Hi,
I was hoping you might be able to me with my S20 Tecna DE. I have owned it for about 10 years. I recently realized that the boiler gaskets were leaking to the point of losing pressure in the boiler. I did a complete tear down and clean up. My problem came with reassembly as I put the boiler drain tube back in. While it looks like a compression type connection, the tube slides into the boiler and remains loose even when I fully tighten the fitting into the boiler. On your boiler is there some sort of insert that goes into the threaded boiler hole that keeps the tube from pushing in? In looking at some of your pictures it doesn't appear to be any different than mine. I can't imagine that water isn't going to just pour out if I try to fill the boiler. Thanks for any help you can offer.

tscorns wrote:Hi,
I was hoping you might be able to me with my S20 Tecna DE. I have owned it for about 10 years. I recently realized that the boiler gaskets were leaking to the point of losing pressure in the boiler. I did a complete tear down and clean up. My problem came with reassembly as I put the boiler drain tube back in. While it looks like a compression type connection, the tube slides into the boiler and remains loose even when I fully tighten the fitting into the boiler. On your boiler is there some sort of insert that goes into the threaded boiler hole that keeps the tube from pushing in? In looking at some of your pictures it doesn't appear to be any different than mine. I can't imagine that water isn't going to just pour out if I try to fill the boiler. Thanks for any help you can offer.

The drain tube has a 3/8" compression nipple that should be silver soldered to the end with a captive nut. Has the fitting come loose from the tube? Can you post a photo?

Cheers!

- Jake

Thanks so much for the reply. I can't post pictures at the moment, but the drain tube is completely intact. The issue is with the connection point on the boiler. There is a 3/8" threaded hole to receive the captive nut, but there is no edge/lip for the compression nipple to push up against. The nipple just pushes through the threaded opening and into the boiler cavity. Even if the nut is tightened, I can push the drain tube into the boiler as it never locks into place. That's why I was wondering if there was something I am missing that the compression nipple compresses against. Does that make sense?

Hi!
Sorry, haven't been active for a while on this forum.
I couldn't find any good pictures of drain pipe disassembled. But as i remember the pipe was locked by the nut and sits steady. as i remember it was a flattening of the end of the pipe that is seald between the nut and the bottom of the connector in the boiler. It sounds like the bottom of the connector in the tank are broken in your case. Is it this drain pipe you mean?


Can you see/feel any stop in the threads in the tank, or do the threads and hole have the same diameter all the way in to the tank? I have checked parts diagram and can not see that it should be any more loose parts than the pipe and the nut.
If it is broken, maybe your simplest option is to solder it fixed. Boring but maybe necessary. Ill send you a pm to share some diagrams i have

Br Andreas