In addition, have you downloaded the owner's manual? Have you contacted the previous owner?

I am in contact with the previous owner. It supposedly ran fine but was only ran ONCE when first purchased. It was also pre-tested by Chris Coffee before shipment to him in 2014. Can't be too screwed up I figure. It looks brand new anyway.

I plan on disabling the pump motor and then checking the water supply solenoid valves with a multi-meter. It seems easier to do this first before checking the gicleur. There are so many wires in the way of where this gicleur is theoretically located that I couldn't get a good picture. I could also maybe bypass the water valves and temporarily direct plumb tank to pump inlet.

I wish I could find a detailed model specific electrical schematic.

Here is where I think the gicleur is located if it comes to that...

An update in my quest to figure out my Vetrano 2B....

So last night I did the following:

Disconnected boilers - I unhooked one wire from 'high reset' thing (with the red button).
Disconnected pump - large plastic-housed connector between Gicar and pump
Verified that I have 120V to the Gicar
When I turn on the machine (brew toggle switch) I get a green LED, no PID, no voltage to either water sol.
After ~ 10 secs I hear a relay trip inside the Gicar - now have 120V to pump, but still no voltage to either solenoid.
PID comes on when I activate the brew lever switch. It goes off when I release this switch.

I called Chris' Coffee and spoke with Roger. He suggested I hook the 'high resets' of both boilers back up and instead disconnect the heating elements themselves from below the machine. He also suggest I reconnect the pump and try again to see if I can get 120V to the water solenoids. (He wasn't sure if the having the pump's main connector disconnected would affect the water solenoid circuit or not)

My current understanding is that the Gicar supplies 120V to the pump via an internal relay contact. This same relay also supplies 120V to the water selection switch which routes power to the appropriate solenoid. Any idea if I am at least in the ballpark with this logic? Again, a schematic would be great! I suppose a faulty water source selector switch would prevent firing the solenoid. The switch look like a DPDT (6 terminals) but is wired as a SPDT in this application. If I can make sense of the wiring at this switch, I plan on jumpering it out so I fire the tank solenoid valve. Make sense?

My current understanding is that the Gicar supplies 120V to the pump via an internal relay contact.

As far as I know, the Gicar only supplies this voltage to the pump (in addition to the steam boiler fill solenoid) when the steam boiler calls for water.

He wasn't sure if the having the pump's main connector disconnected would affect the water solenoid circuit or not

As far as I know, it does not. You should see a double terminal with blue wires on the connector to the pump. One of those blue wires goes to the boiler fill solenoid.

Once again, you DO NOT WANT to run the pump until this electrical issue (if it is that) is solved. You will wreck the pump.

There is no electrical schematic for this machine available on the internet. You can "fire" the tank solenoid simply by disconnecting the wiring to it and then connecting a self made connector with female spades and a plug for a nearby socket.

Thanks erics!
My plan is to get 120V to the tank solenoid as you describe and then fire up the machine.
According to my checks last night, the tank/plumbed selector switch is suspect.
No matter what I tried, I never had voltage at either of the 2 solenoid valves that supply water to the pump inlet.
Then I started wondering if maybe this was because I had the pump disconnected.

In case it helps, I do think I remember having 120V at the steam boiler fill solenoid. That (to me) is another clue that maybe there is an issue with the water supply mode selector switch since this solenoid is not wired to this switch.

I did email Quick Mill and 'begged' for schematics. No response. I was surprised a place like Chris' Coffee didn't have schematics either.
This means I will ultimately have to draw up my own, but that is a lot of wires to trace down!

Again - my biggest thanks to you and everyone else that is helping me get this beauty running.

I meant to say female spades and have edited accordingly.

Quick update - I hope this helps someone else down the road.

I finally took the advice of Tim at Chris' Coffee and checked the 'gicleur' located in the elbow at the pump discharge.
This WAS clogged as he suspected which makes sense considering the machine was only fired up once for testing back when it was first purchased in 2014. It then sat until I got it. I chased what I thought was an electrical issue with the water inlet solenoids with no luck. Then I bypassed this stuff by hooking up a hose directly to the pump's inlet port. I knew that gicleur was likely clogged when even this direct-plumbed setup would not pull water into the pump.

The clogged gicleur was located in the pump discharge elbow as shown below. I had to sketch it in b/c the parts drawings I have do not show it. The orifice is 0.70mm so I reamed it out with a #71 drill bit (0.026" which is just shy of the 0.7mm spec).

I now have to reassemble everything and hope this is the only issue. I am wondering if I should use any pipe thread sealant when I screw this elbow back on. Teflon tape maybe? I sure don't want to have a leak!

Thanks for all suggestions etc.!