Quickmill Andreja Premium - Heater flips GFCI

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.

#1: Post by cssk »


I need help with my Andreja Premium that flips the GFCI when turned on. I've narrowed it down to the heating element, by unplugging all electrical components and step by step bringing them back online. Machine only flips GFCI when the heating element is disconnected.

I've read about ground leaks, which I don't know how to detect. Any guidance available?
I measured 45 Ohm at the heater, but read about 8-12 ohm as desired value. Is that high Ohm value a indicator for a possible damage? Anything else I can check?

Is the replacement of the heater a big thing? Can this be done or is such a damage a death sign for the machine?


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BaristaBoy E61

#2: Post by BaristaBoy E61 »

Welcome to HB Chris.

Leakage is measured between each element lead and ground or the brass body of the element. I'm perplexed that you say that the circuit trips only when the heating element is disconnected. I would expect that the breaker trips when it is connected.

It shouldn't be a big deal to replace a heating element, depending on you mechanical aptitudes.

Be sure all your resistance measurements are done with the machine unplugged !
"You didn't buy an Espresso Machine - You bought a Chemistry Set!"

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#3: Post by Nunas »

As Steve intimates, you probably meant to write that the GFCI only trips when the heater is connected, not disconnected. If this is the case, then it's a clear indication that the heater is defective, even if it still heats. Your GFCI is your best measurement tool here, as the current required to trip it is very low. If you have access to a borescope or can easily remove the element, have a close look at the heater, using a magnifying glass if necessary. Most failures of the sort you probably have are caused by a crack or rupture of the external sheath of the heater. This lets water in, which is what causes the leakage current that is tripping your GFCI. If you don't see a break, another test, if you happen to have access to a Variac, is to dry out the removed heater by running it on a lower voltage on a non-GFCI circuit until it dries out. A lower voltage is needed because the heater is intended to be used only when immersed in water. Once dry, hook it to a GFCI outlet and see if it trips. If it does not, then immerse it in water for a short time and retest. If there's a break in the sheath, it will run fine when dry and trip when wet. Frankly, though, chances are you need a new heater. Lots of folks here on H-B have replaced theirs DIY.

cssk (original poster)

#4: Post by cssk (original poster) »

Sorry guys, of course I meant that the heater is connected.