Quickmill Alexia (single boiler) pump won't stop
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MemPast
Folks,
I have an Alexia with PID, which is a single boiler, not HX machine.
Today, I pulled a shot, and after lowering the lever to stop the shot, the pump did not stop. The switch behind the lever moves freely and I can hear clicks when I push it and let go.
I removed the cover to see if the switch is stuck and saw a couple of burns on a couple of wire connectors, which worries me.
Since it is not a HX, the issue is not a water level sensor, nor a solenoid, as discussed in other threads on the pump issue.
What should I be looking for to identify the issue?
Thnaks.
I have an Alexia with PID, which is a single boiler, not HX machine.
Today, I pulled a shot, and after lowering the lever to stop the shot, the pump did not stop. The switch behind the lever moves freely and I can hear clicks when I push it and let go.
I removed the cover to see if the switch is stuck and saw a couple of burns on a couple of wire connectors, which worries me.
Since it is not a HX, the issue is not a water level sensor, nor a solenoid, as discussed in other threads on the pump issue.
What should I be looking for to identify the issue?
Thnaks.
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Giampiero
IMO can be only the switch that got stuck, i would investigate deeper in that direction.
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MemPast (original poster)
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austinado16
Maybe the SSR has failed internally, so power is being held "on" regardless of what the switch is doing?
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Davi-L
The pump can be powered on by a switch on the panel or the lever. Open the machine completely and see what's feeding the pump wire. Get help if this is daunting for you.
Burnt wires and terminals are common on American voltages. I ended up reworking everything high amperage to 14 gauge.
Dave
Burnt wires and terminals are common on American voltages. I ended up reworking everything high amperage to 14 gauge.
Dave
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JRising
- Team HB
Follow the neutral side of the pump's wiring. It will be damaged somewhere and grounding on the body, otherwise there wouldn't be any power through the pump and the pump wouldn't be running. Either the switch is closed or a damaged wire is allowing current to flow. If you take both connectors off of the switch (and stick them safely in plastic bags or something so they can not touch anything) then plug the machine in and witness the pump still running, then you have ruled out the switch as the problem. It could be as simple as a thermal device clinging to the pump is touching something and grounding out. Those things get beaten up all the time and lose their insulation, I don't know if Alexia has one or not.
What's worse is that the wiring to the switch uses brown, so it should be the phase side. If phase is switched, then the neutral touching ground shouldn't actually run the pump. You'll want to confirm whether your machine is properly wired with neutral blue commons. If you have a digital multimeter it will help your troubleshooting in many ways.
And yes. Those burnt connectors are only going to overheat more and more and get worse. You should replace them with new insulated fastons, though I really don't think they have anything to do with the pump issue.
What's worse is that the wiring to the switch uses brown, so it should be the phase side. If phase is switched, then the neutral touching ground shouldn't actually run the pump. You'll want to confirm whether your machine is properly wired with neutral blue commons. If you have a digital multimeter it will help your troubleshooting in many ways.
And yes. Those burnt connectors are only going to overheat more and more and get worse. You should replace them with new insulated fastons, though I really don't think they have anything to do with the pump issue.
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MemPast (original poster)
Thanks, all.
The lever switch is the culprit. It was stuck close.
When I opened the machine up, I hit the toggle pump switch at the top of the machine beside the power switch. I forgot to turn back off. Then when I replaced the lever switch with another, the pump was on regardless, and I thought the original switch is fine. I later noticed the toggle switch is on
The machine is back on and working. Will put order for new switch.
As for burnt connectors to PID, I encountered similar problem with my Vibiemme machine. The wires in the Vibiemme are thinner than the ones in the Alexia. I crimped the wires and fitted new connectors more than once for the heating element, but they kept getting burnt. I gave up after a couple of times and left the machine in the garage. I wish I do not have to do the same with the Alexia.
Best.
The lever switch is the culprit. It was stuck close.
When I opened the machine up, I hit the toggle pump switch at the top of the machine beside the power switch. I forgot to turn back off. Then when I replaced the lever switch with another, the pump was on regardless, and I thought the original switch is fine. I later noticed the toggle switch is on
The machine is back on and working. Will put order for new switch.
As for burnt connectors to PID, I encountered similar problem with my Vibiemme machine. The wires in the Vibiemme are thinner than the ones in the Alexia. I crimped the wires and fitted new connectors more than once for the heating element, but they kept getting burnt. I gave up after a couple of times and left the machine in the garage. I wish I do not have to do the same with the Alexia.
Best.
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