Quick Mill Anita with Delta DTB 4824 displays "no Cont" and won't heat

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
hi-phile

#1: Post by hi-phile »

Hi,
I've been following this forum and have been lurking here for a very long time. I am a DIY person and have repaired various coffee equipment. Recently, my Quick Mill Anita started to display a "no Cont" message on the Delta DTB 4824 PID and when that happens I noticed the heating element does not engage. Reason I am posting, I never was able to find out what this message on the PID was, and no where was I able to find out what causes this message. So, I am posting here to hopefully help another person who might encounter this issue.

Before showing only the "no Cont" on the PID when the machine was switched onto the heating element, the message was intermittent and would fluctuate between displaying the temperature of the boiler and the "no Cont". Each time the message appears, I noticed the red heating light would be out. I went ahead and removed the panel and was going to test the voltage, the first thing I noticed the LED on the SSR is not on, normally it is green when the machine is turned on. So I am getting 120v when testing at 1 (L1) and 2(T1) pins which indicates the SSR is getting power. When I tested the output pins +3(A1) and 4(A2-) there is zero volts. My SSR is the Crouzet 8434010 and I am going to go ahead and order a replacement. I found an exact replacement for around $50 at Allied Electronics.

Now, to my question, I read that the QM Anita is all AC, there is no DC volts is that correct? In any case, I switched my test meter to read DC volts on pins 3 and 4, an this was still showing 0 volts.

User avatar
erics
Supporter ★

#2: Post by erics »

. . . I never was able to find out what this message on the PID was . . .
'no Cont' is an abbreviation for 'no connect' meaning that the temperature sensor is likely damaged in some fashion.

Send me an email and I can send you the manual for this controller. You could also contact Dave Blaine - http://www.hitechespresso.com/ as I am quite certain he installed this PID on your Anita.
Skål,

Eric S.
http://users.rcn.com/erics/
E-mail: erics at rcn dot com

hi-phile (original poster)

#3: Post by hi-phile (original poster) »

erics wrote:'no Cont' is an abbreviation for 'no connect' meaning that the temperature sensor is likely damaged in some fashion.
Hi erics,

Thanks for your reply, as it helped me very much to correct the problem. :D I did more examining and found that the Delta PID had a basic schematic on the top which showed the connection to the TC (Thermo-Couple/Temperature Control). I removed the GICAR Controller mount which would allow easier access to view the connections on the PID, and upon closer examination, as I followed the TC line to the back of the PID, I noticed that the blue wire was broken off and was the cause of the "no Cont" message to appear. It makes sense, the PID wasn't getting a signal from the temperature sensor.

I have photos of the broken off wire and the repair.

User avatar
GC7
Supporter ♡

#4: Post by GC7 »

hi-phile wrote: I did more examining and found that the Delta PID had a basic schematic on the top which showed the connection to the TC (Thermo-Couple/Temperature Control). I removed the GICAR Controller mount which would allow easier access to view the connections on the PID, and upon closer examination, as I followed the TC line to the back of the PID,

I have photos of the broken off wire and the repair.
Hi- Can you describe just what you did to expose the back of the PID? I have a different but similar problem and I'd like to see if there might be a loose wire causing my intermittent heating. THANKS!!

hi-phile (original poster)

#5: Post by hi-phile (original poster) »

This photo shows best how I "exposed" the back of the PID. You can see the wire plugs on the left side, this is the GICAR Controller. And the mounting screw is visible above the back of the PID. I removed this screw and was able to gain more access to the back of the PID.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/oF2xqhJoLYefjMjs8

Also, the connection problem was at first intermittent, the blue wire was vibrating when the pump came on as the water line was touching this wire, which eventually caused the connection to break.