I have a Quick Mill Anita, purchased in 2009.

I just rebuilt the E61 group, as it had developed a leak (by rebuilt, I mean replaced the various seals and bits and bobs). Turned it back on, did a few flushes, pulled a shot. Everything worked.

The next morning, I noticed that the pump seemed to be working overtime. Pulled two shots, everything seemed to be working - although the pump seemed to be running a but much.

About an hour later, I went to pull another shot, but the pump wasn't working when I pulled on the lever arm, and the group head was warm, but not so hot I couldn't put my hand on it. So I turned it off.

A few hours later, when I had free time, I called Chris Coffee, and spoke with a service tech. The tech was straight up rude (which is a first, as I've always had fantastic service from CC over the more than ten years I've dealt with them), and told me that the machine had lost its prime, and hung up on me. (That wasn't it, but I primed it anyway).

Anyway, when I turned it back on (it had cooled down in the meanwhile), it was working -- although the pump was running overtime. Not nonstop, just way more than usual. I pulled a few shots, but when I went back to the machine an hour or so later, the pump was no longer working - although it sounded like it was trying: nothing when I pulled the lever, but it would make occasional clicking sounds, so I turned the machine off.

That was a few hours ago. I just turned it back on, and the pump was working again.

Here's my working theory: I'm guessing that 1. the water level sensor is probably in need of replacement; 2. this is causing the pump to run overtime, which is causing it to overheat (is there a thermal switch or something on there?).

Does that sound right?

I'm confused why this happened right after replacing all the seals on the group, although that could be a red herring.

Any help would be most appreciated.

You can check your theory by seeing if the boiler-fill solenoid actuated when you've got the long-run condition. The fill actuates the pump and the solenoid. On a cold, unpressurized boiler, temporarily removing the anti-vacuum valve would let you observe the water level.

If it is a water-level problem, it could be either the sensor or the gicar (or wiring). If the sensor, it might be related to scale or corrosion.

It is also possible that the boiler-fill valve has problems.

There is a thermal overheat switch on pump in the Anita I got from Chris Coffee in 2005. I would not trust it to completely protect the pump. The Ulkas are rated at something like 1 min on, 2 min off (depending on specific variant), with much colder water and environment than an espresso machine usually provides.

I'd definitely check for leaks, including air into the supply/inlet lines.

The Ulkas can be hard to prime. I've had to use a squeeze bottle to get them to go.

cassady wrote:I have a Quick Mill Anita, purchased in 2009.

Here's my working theory: I'm guessing that 1. the water level sensor is probably in need of replacement; 2. this is causing the pump to run overtime, which is causing it to overheat (is there a thermal switch or something on there?).

Yes, there is a thermal switch right on the pump's coil and your theory is good. However, unscrewing, cleaning and reinstalling your level prob is as good a solution as replacing it unless it is in really bad shape. (Terribly acidic boiler water can oxidize a boiler probe badly enough you'll see rust on it, in which case you'll want to replace the probe and change up your water-conditioning set up).

Here is the probe before cleaning:



Doesn't look too bad to me, but it's the first one I've ever seen, so that's no guide. It cleaned up okay, but the behavior didn't change. I'll order one from CC and see how it goes.

That is pretty bad, if the photo isn't lending to the discolouration. Maybe replacing it isn't a bad idea, maybe a light descale of the boiler if the probe has collected that much. In fact, give the probe itself a good soak in strong citric acid, the whole thing, top, bottom, white sleeve and all, then sand the bottom end shiny again and clean/rinse/dry it up and put it back in place. (Sorry, I don't mean to bark instructions at you, just typing what I would decide to do).


Let some water out of the boiler so that you know it's below the probe, reinstall the probe and see if the behaviour doesn't improve after the machine successfully completes a boiler-fill. (Might not make a difference, but it's the next step in my head).

So I got the new probe (I'm just at the other end of the Thruway from Chris Coffee), and, after a quick call to CC -- the new probe was about 7" long and the old one was about 4"; the tech at CC said that's normal and to cut it to size -- there's no change in behavior.

The pump rattle-runs, for lack of a better word, but doesn't actually run. If you disconnect and ground the lead from the probe, or raise the lever arm, the pump runs as usual, but otherwise it's like the pump is an idling and poorly tuned engine, if that makes any sense.

I took a video, if that would be any help, but it'll take me some time to upload it.

I'm out of ideas, and sincerely hope you all can help.

Ulka pumps don't last forever. If the pump doesn't sound right, it's just normally a bad pump. Pumps can be purchased for around $20 on Amazon, or if you want you could just go to Chris Coffee. You could also call CC tech support and have them listen to the pump over the phone to see what they think.

Your pump may well be dead (they wear out eventually no matter what) but be aware that it may be a symptom rather than the problem. If your pump ran for a long time it may have burned itself out. Also they rely on the water to cool so if they aren't primed they can burn out even faster. You need to fix whatever was making it run continuously which hopefully you have. Also when doing something where the pump has to run a long time like refill the boiler you need to manually turn the machine off to give it a break.

Spoke to a different tech at CC, great guy, helpful and friendly. He has a different idea, which makes a lot of sense to me.

Something's plugged in the boiler fill system, perhaps caused by rebuilding the group.

Thev tech suggested I replace the water solenoid fill valve. Even if it is just clogged and not busted, his rationale went, it's ever ten years old, so you might as well replace it while you've got it off.

Sounds reasonable to me.

I'm keep you all updated.

Well, that sucked.

I tried to replace the solenoid without pulling the boiler.

Almost had it, until I sheared what I'm guessing is a check valve to the boiler.

Damn.

This is not going to be fun at all.

On the plus side, I finally have a good reason to replace the original fifteen year old cracked crunchy green insulation.