Quick Mill Anita Not Heating - Page 2
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JRising
- Team HB
- Posts: 3716
- Joined: 5 years ago
You might want to trust the sticker on the Gicar box, rather than the diagram posted above. According to the sticker, it was correct in the photo with the Gnd/Green/Yellow on the #6 terminal.
And while they probably do drink wine at lunch, I don't think that's their only reason for not bothering to learn North American wire colour standards.
And while they probably do drink wine at lunch, I don't think that's their only reason for not bothering to learn North American wire colour standards.
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Nate42
- Posts: 1211
- Joined: 11 years ago
Careful with that Gicar wiring, I seriously doubt it was wired incorrectly if the machine used to function properly. The line/neutral reverse actually doesn't matter from a functional perspective, although it can be a safety concern or exacerbate issues when other parts fail. The controller on the other hand shouldn't work correctly at all if miswired.
As far as troubleshooting the SSR, make sure you are using a neutral as your reference point. A2 on the SSR is neutral. So if you see ~110V between A1 and A2 (indicating the pressurestat is sending voltage to SSR) then you should also see voltage between A2 and T1. You should always see voltage between A2 and L1, provided power and level switches are on. If everything else is as expected but no voltage at T1, then SSR is bad.
As to the free SSR offer, I'm happy to give it a home. I bought an exact replacement for mine, but before it arrived a friend gave me a different one (a better rated one intended for medical devices) that I ended up using instead, so the one I bought is collecting dust.
As far as troubleshooting the SSR, make sure you are using a neutral as your reference point. A2 on the SSR is neutral. So if you see ~110V between A1 and A2 (indicating the pressurestat is sending voltage to SSR) then you should also see voltage between A2 and T1. You should always see voltage between A2 and L1, provided power and level switches are on. If everything else is as expected but no voltage at T1, then SSR is bad.
As to the free SSR offer, I'm happy to give it a home. I bought an exact replacement for mine, but before it arrived a friend gave me a different one (a better rated one intended for medical devices) that I ended up using instead, so the one I bought is collecting dust.
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g_c (original poster)
- Posts: 6
- Joined: 4 years ago
Yes, on the SSR this is exactly what I see.Nate42 wrote: So if you see ~110V between A1 and A2 (indicating the pressurestat is sending voltage to SSR) then you should also see voltage between A2 and T1. You should always see voltage between A2 and L1, provided power and level switches are on. If everything else is as expected but no voltage at T1, then SSR is bad.
With the GICAR controller, I have functionally checked it both ways and see no difference. My Anita is a 2005 model, a few years prior to the date on the schematic we are referencing. I will take the advice to leave it as is and connect the GICAR terminal 6 to ground as the symbol on the controller suggests.
