Quick Mill Alexia heating problems

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
jeff423
Posts: 12
Joined: 7 years ago

#1: Post by jeff423 »

My Alexia is about 10 yrs. old and has developed heating problems. Often when I turn it on in the morning everything seems fine - the PID powers up but the middle light indicating power to the heating element is off and the machine isn't heating. Sometimes cycling the power switch will get it to work, sometimes waiting a few minutes gets it to work. I contacted Chris Coffee and they thought it might be the low water shutoff. I jumped that out of the circuit and it worked for a while but then it failed to heat again. When it doesn't heat the steam circuit doesn't heat either. I've checked the heating element and it's fine.

So far I've replaced the ice cube relay and the SSR. Everything I've done seems to work for 2-3 days and then it starts again. I'm frustrated because I can't get a wiring diagram. I'm beginning to think there might an intermittent connection, or else the PID is bad, but from the display it seems fine.
Anybody have any ideas? Maybe a fluky pressure stat or high limit switch?

Neto
Posts: 121
Joined: 6 years ago

#2: Post by Neto »

have you tried to open the cpu? it sounds like something is loose or on its way out

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jeff423 (original poster)
Posts: 12
Joined: 7 years ago

#3: Post by jeff423 (original poster) »

I'm not sure what you mean by "opening the CPU". Do you mean the pid controller? I have checked and all the wires are tight. I don't think it can be opened - removed and replaced perhaps.

Davi-L
Posts: 142
Joined: 5 years ago

#4: Post by Davi-L »

Hello,
I have a similar Alexia. There are two relays in mine. The small ice cube relay and the larger power shut off relay. Try replacing the larger one. Other than that you'll have to take the cover off, unplug it and take off the reservoir holder. Check all the wiring and crimp on terminals, including the bottom where the heater is powered. There is no pressure control. It's all temperature.
you may have to ohm out the components and then check with the power on with a volt meter. Yeah, a bit dangerous. Try to do it when it's not working.
The wiring is a nightmare on this model.
Good Luck,
Dave

jeff423 (original poster)
Posts: 12
Joined: 7 years ago

#5: Post by jeff423 (original poster) »

Thanks,

I've replaced both relays. The ice cube was done a month or so ago. I thought that had fixed it but it quit again. I replaced the larger (40A SSR) relay that drives the heating element yesterday and it's working fine now. Maybe that cured it, but I doubt it. As you point out since its working I can't troubleshoot it. The new SSR has a light that shows when it's energized so that will help with troubleshooting.
Right now when it stops I don't know if power isn't getting to the heating element because the SSR isn't getting a signal or if there is an "open" between the SSR and the heating elements. The light on the new SSR should help with that.
One thing the new SSR has shown me is that the switch that is marked 1 Off 2 controls power to the heating element because the SSR and PID continue to function in the 1 position but the element is not getting power. I'd like to know if there is anything else in the circuit between the SSR and the element except the 1 OFF 2 switch ? For example is there a pressure or temperature switch that could be failing intermittently ? According to Chris Coffee there is a re-settable pressure stat at the very top of the boiler.
I'm beginning to think there may be a loose connection or else the PID is bad.
I agree the wiring is a mess. (I PID'ed a Silvia years ago and it took about an hour and was very straight forward.)

jeff423 (original poster)
Posts: 12
Joined: 7 years ago

#6: Post by jeff423 (original poster) »

Update: It appears that replacing the SSR may have fixed the problem. Since I replaced it the machine has worked fine (I hope this doesn't jinx it). FWIW: I initially bought a 25 A SSR on ebay for about $7.00 shipped. It worked but got very warm. I then read some disturbing reports about that very relay on YouTube and the Underwriters Labs. website. I subsequently bought a quality 40A SSR and installed it on a heat sink inside the Alexia. It's only slightly warm during the heating up to brewing temp. and room temp as it holds 200f. I wish I could have installed it outside but I didn't want to drill any holes and there isn't sufficient clearance to run the wires outside.

nahau
Posts: 528
Joined: 11 years ago

#7: Post by nahau »

Out of curiosity, which ebay 25A relay did you buy? Have a link?

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jeff423 (original poster)
Posts: 12
Joined: 7 years ago

#8: Post by jeff423 (original poster) »

Here's a link to the UL story:
https://www.ul.com/node/81246

nahau
Posts: 528
Joined: 11 years ago

#9: Post by nahau replying to jeff423 »

Thank you for the link... very Interesting! Yup, I've been burned on ebay several times with counterfiet products. Luckily though, I always got my money back.

jeff423 (original poster)
Posts: 12
Joined: 7 years ago

#10: Post by jeff423 (original poster) »

I got my money back too. Interestingly enough they didn't want the relay back. :D
I noticed that both the original relay (Crydon) and the new high quality relay are much heavier than the counterfeit.

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