Ace hardware had some high temp spade connectors, used them and some high temp household appliance wire to rebuild the wiring between the thermostat and the boiler heating element to replace the burnt and crusty connectors at the element. Wiring good, continuity checks good, but as of now the machine powers on, but in green light illuminates. No boiler filling from vibe pump, no boiler heating element on. So kinda back at square one.

Need to study this thread and maybe drop some posts in there. Profitec Pro 800 on but not heating

At this point it's worth to check water tank's float.
Main outcome from this story should be not to use machine with any sort of malfunctions or unexpected behavior to avoid additional damage and potential danger situations.
Just for example with wet or shortened water probe machine could decide that there is enough water in the boiler while it's not and burn water heating element.

Agreed on using a non-100% machine, and hindsight is certainly 20/20.

On the float - The float in the tank is, well, floating. It aligns well with the sensor. AdditionallyI ran a continuity test on the sensor terminals and that checks out. I guess a faulty tank water level sensor could be the culprit...? Come to think of it, there were times during the original set of symptoms, before I cleaned boiler fill probe, when the machine would continue filling the boiler well past the "cut off" mark when the tank low-water sensor should have stopped the pump.

Any tips on further testing? Or a swap out of the unit and seeing if it works then is another option.

JRising wrote:I agree with Will completely.
Additionally, once the probe has the boiler filling to the proper level and the vacuum breaker is functioning properly, watch the Safety Valve closely for the first couple of times the boiler comes up to temperature. They can catch a piece of crud and be held open if they're ever allowed to blow, If it is leaking at less than 1.5 Bar it should be replaced. A safety valve with a very slight leak will quickly get worse. They're not durable, they're intended to never actually be used, they only blow if there's something wrong with the machine. They're supposed to reseat after relieving, but make sure they have done so the next time you heat the boiler.

Sir,

I saw that you've been quite helpful in a previous "pro 800 not heating up" thread here - Profitec Pro 800 on but not heating

May I kindly request your further insight? The symptoms here that I have been experienceing, as outlined in this thread, have given way to a "green light only" condition. When machine is powered on, no signs of life are exhibited except the illuminated green light.

Alright, I'll take a shot at it.

Correct me if any of these assumptions are incorrect:

Removing the water tank makes a difference, so we know that the machine is sensing the float.

After turning the machine on, you hear a faint click from the powerboard (at least one relay activating).

After that click, it appears that nothing is actually activated on the machine, pump isn't running, boiler hasn't started warming up after a minute, etc.

If all of the above is correct, next step is to actually look at the wiring from power-cord to Gicar (or whatever brand the powerboard is) and to the green lamp on the front. I'm making the assumption that the Profitec 800 is wired exactly as an EMC Synchronika. I don't have Profitec .pdf handy. So the green lamp is controlled by the powerboard (not wired to the switch like an old ECM Giotto). Thus if the green lamp is on, the powerboard is alive. I could be wrong. Correct me if I'm wrong.

So powerboard is alive, has managed to boot up and probably thinks the machine is working, SO... It has checked reservoir level (floaty magnet) and is on to the next step, boiler level Either it should be seeing the boiler as low and topping it up, or seeing the boiler as filled to the probe and should be heating the coffee boiler. If you pull the connector off of the boiler-fill probe, does the pump run and start filling the boiler (don't keep it disconnected more than 6 seconds, no need to over fill it). If not was there at least a click of the boiler fill solenoid? And a clunk a couple seconds after you put the connector back on the probe of the valve closing?

I'll check in again to see which assumptions you've corrected me on.

If you believe that float is ok, worth to check water source switch. There is a chance that it could be corroded inside with some conductive rust and produce some noise to machine's control unit .
If this switch has only two wires connected, you could disconnect it and this will be equal to tank water source position.
Another way is to measure resistance, especially in off position with megaohms range on multimeter.

Pushjerk wrote:Agreed on using a non-100% machine, and hindsight is certainly 20/20.

On the float - The float in the tank is, well, floating. It aligns well with the sensor. AdditionallyI ran a continuity test on the sensor terminals and that checks out. I guess a faulty tank water level sensor could be the culprit...? Come to think of it, there were times during the original set of symptoms, before I cleaned boiler fill probe, when the machine would continue filling the boiler well past the "cut off" mark when the tank low-water sensor should have stopped the pump.

Any tips on further testing? Or a swap out of the unit and seeing if it works then is another option.

Thanks guys for the replies. I'll do some proper composing of answers to the above questions and some poking around the machine and get back in short order.

Have a fine night.

JRising wrote:Alright, I'll take a shot at it.

Correct me if any of these assumptions are incorrect:

Removing the water tank makes a difference, so we know that the machine is sensing the float.

After turning the machine on, you hear a faint click from the powerboard (at least one relay activating).

After that click, it appears that nothing is actually activated on the machine, pump isn't running, boiler hasn't started warming up after a minute, etc.

If all of the above is correct, next step is to actually look at the wiring from power-cord to Gicar (or whatever brand the powerboard is) and to the green lamp on the front. I'm making the assumption that the Profitec 800 is wired exactly as an EMC Synchronika. I don't have Profitec .pdf handy. So the green lamp is controlled by the powerboard (not wired to the switch like an old ECM Giotto). Thus if the green lamp is on, the powerboard is alive. I could be wrong. Correct me if I'm wrong.

So powerboard is alive, has managed to boot up and probably thinks the machine is working, SO... It has checked reservoir level (floaty magnet) and is on to the next step, boiler level Either it should be seeing the boiler as low and topping it up, or seeing the boiler as filled to the probe and should be heating the coffee boiler. If you pull the connector off of the boiler-fill probe, does the pump run and start filling the boiler (don't keep it disconnected more than 6 seconds, no need to over fill it). If not was there at least a click of the boiler fill solenoid? And a clunk a couple seconds after you put the connector back on the probe of the valve closing?

I'll check in again to see which assumptions you've corrected me on.

Please pardon the gap since last post/reply. Just haven't had the time to sit with machine.

To reply to your above "assumptions":

Water tank/float - When the machine was operable, the float/sensor seemed to be working fine. And removing the tank would indeed cut off boiler (amber light).

Turning on the machine - At this time, when I toggle the power switch, there is no sound coming from the machine other than the physical click of the switch - no faint clicking on Powerades board (I believe I know that sound), no heating element creaking, nada.

The checklist fails there. Could I possibly be looking at a faulty power board/relay? Tips moving forward, possible sources to acquire parts for troubleshooting/replacement?

Again, your time and insight is greatly appreciated! My Silvia and Bellman stovetop steamer have been getting lots of love lately.

Do you have one or two contact thermostats mounted on the boiler side plate? Have you checked them?