Yes, but what is powering your PID controller? Does it run directly off of mains voltage, or does it have its own transformer givin? it 12 - 15 VDC?
(I'm not kidding, I'm not at work, I can't see a PP 700 nor bring it up easily on the computer).

If the PID controller is powered by a little transformer next to it, check if the output is dropping below 8 VDC and failing to keep the PID controller alive.

I'm not at work either on holiday in Hawaii .

In Australia, the PID is powered by separate 12 v control board, next to main board. But if it was related to that, wouldn't the pump still work? I still think it may be low water shut off related, have you tried moving the float in the tank up or down, sometimes they can tilt backwards as well and have a bad signal

FA1 & FA2 Is the incoming mains supply voltage so you're not monitoring what is coming out of the controller.



Checking FA6 to neutral would be a good start as that is the supply from the controller to the 12v psu. Then if that is OK when the machine trips as @jrising said check the 12v output from the power supply

Had similar issue with my Lelit Bianca but my steam boiler was heating correctly. Check my post below

Lelit Bianca - during startup LCC turns off as soon as brew boiler reaches 130 degrees Celsius

After removing the water filter the issue disappeared. Now I put a new filter and checking. So for works fine. I believe the Gicar have an overheating failsafe and somehow the temp probe registers an overheat. If you leave it as is you will probably see the screen power on again showing an elevated temp

Good luck

Had some time to poke around some more this afternoon. If I understood my latest homework assignment correctly (see pic, best I could do) then we seem to have the answer.



Hooked up the multimeter to FA6 and ground as @PartySausage directed. Showed normal voltage on start up. Brew boiler came up to temp, then the steam boiler started heating. After a short while, and as expected, the machine shut down and the multimeter showed zero volts out to the PID. Given that everything else in the machine seems to work normally when the PID has power and there are no over-temps, etc. I am going to jump to the presumption that it is indeed some sort of heat-related fault in the controller as @PartySausage surmised earlier in the thread.

Thanks for all the helpful replies. Thanks especially to @PartySausage, @JRising, and @cafeIKE for giving me a better understanding of the electrical/electronic side of this machine. Much appreciated!

I'll update when I am able.

Glad to help & it's good to hear that you've isolated the issue. Will await with interest any follow up once you get chance to replace the controller

Agree Pat (Boyt) provides excellent service, rebuilt my controller a few years ago .