Profitec Pro 700 - no steam, no hot water - Page 2

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
VirTERM
Posts: 62
Joined: 1 year ago

#11: Post by VirTERM »

Perhaps your PID is at fault?

linjan (original poster)
Posts: 10
Joined: 1 year ago

#12: Post by linjan (original poster) replying to VirTERM »

i think maybe buy 2 new ssr and repalce it first? is there possible safety valve problem? or the 2 high limit switch ?

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JRising
Team HB
Posts: 3713
Joined: 5 years ago

#13: Post by JRising »

It's definitely an "electrical component" problem, not valves or anything.

If you're comfortable running the machine with its panels off, do so. Let it heat up with its body panels off and watch the LEDs on the SSRs. You'll see the Brew SSR on solid for quite a whike at first, until the brew boiler gets up in range, then the SSRs will alternate the load to get the steam boiler started catching up. What matters is what's happening after the steam boiler starts warming up, when it gets to that point where it seems to stop heating despite not being at temp.

If the Steam SSR is still receiving signal, its LED should still be blinking on with the pulses to the element. Once the brew boiler is at temp, the steam boiler will be near full power, so that LED should be mostly on.

I strongly suggest mounting the SSRs to their sheet-metal location, the sheet metal acts as a heat-sink for them. They will get very hot running if they're just hanging by their wires, though you can do it for a few seconds if you just want to confirm that a relay is working.

Lastly... If you can see that the SSR's LED is on, it should be feeding full lines voltage to the element. If you're comfortable doing so, you can test voltage at the element.
A safer test is to use an ampclamp type of meter to measure power in the element's circuit. They make it hard to get electrocuted.
Please don't work inside a live machine unless you're certain you know what you're doing and how the tool works.
(I once had a guy bring me all three of my multi-meters and tell me that none of them worked for "Measuring Ohmage"... He'd been testing elements with the power on.)

PartySausage
Posts: 50
Joined: 3 years ago

#14: Post by PartySausage »

Probably something you've already checked, but one of the over temp thermostats on the boiler hasn't by any chance tripped. The black buttons on the two sensors to the right of the OPV should be down

linjan (original poster)
Posts: 10
Joined: 1 year ago

#15: Post by linjan (original poster) »

thank you for kindly explain
appreciate you
i watched when the ssr getting up steam temp, it will blinking and off the machine the 2 ssr is still cold, i think there is problem

Giampiero
Posts: 851
Joined: 8 years ago

#16: Post by Giampiero »

Just to be sure, can you check the steam boiler PID set point temperature, I don't know what temperature value was in origin, but at least should be around 125/126 Celsius degrees.

linjan (original poster)
Posts: 10
Joined: 1 year ago

#17: Post by linjan (original poster) replying to Giampiero »

i reset the pid, so the steam temperature is 124C now

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linjan (original poster)
Posts: 10
Joined: 1 year ago

#18: Post by linjan (original poster) »

update:
problem solved,replace the steam boiler heating element

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