I'm sorry I made a confusion with the Puristika. I'm withdrawing my post

Moka 1 Cup wrote:Probably not the cause since you tested it with the internal water reservoir as well, but can you check the pressure of the water line? Just in case.

When I got home this evening I wanted to double check what happens on my 800 when there is not enough pressure to fill the boiler. As I thought I had already seen happening, the heating of the water does not start until the boiler is refilled. So if there is no water going into the boiler, the heating does not start (and the orange light stays off). The machine acts like it is totally dead other than for the green light and for the initial click after you turn it on and it checks for incoming water.
Obviously you have already checked if the machine was working with the internal reservoir and it was not, however it is not impossibile to forget to press the switch behind the tray or not to turn the valve on the back of the machine fully to the right position. In fact it has happened to me a couple of times .

Moka 1 Cup wrote:The machine acts like it is totally dead other than for the green light and for the initial click after you turn it on and it checks for incoming water.
Obviously you have already checked if the machine was working with the internal reservoir and it was not, however it is not impossibile to forget to press the switch behind the tray or not to turn the valve on the back of the machine fully to the right position. In fact it has happened to me a couple of times .

You are 100% correct (I only recently learned that the 800 doesn't run the pump to boiler-fill when plumbed), however...
On the 700, it would be trying to run pump and open boiler-fill valve whether it was plumbed or on reservoir, so the fact that it is completely silent makes me think it's not a boiler-fill issue.

This could be proven by grounding the boiler-fill conductor to boiler body to see if the orange lamp and PID controller illuminate.

Hello All, and again, thanks for the tips and ideas. Admittedly, I'm not very knowledgeable about electronics, but I was able to check a few things with my voltmeter. Not sure this will make sense.

I tested the voltage between the brown and black leads that go into the power supply (black box part US1004) and there were 120V.
I also checked the last pin on the right front of the power supply (where a white wire is connected) attached it to the blue ground and got 11V AC

I checked the black wire leading into the 12v transformer (box on left) and connected it to the blue ground wire and saw 16V.

I'm honestly not sure I'm even testing these correctly, but let me know if this gives any clues as to what is wrong with the machine. Is my transformer dead?

Also, for those who asked- there is no power to the machine at all- no heat, no pump, etc. Just the green light works, the rest of the machine is completely inactive.

raknyc wrote: I checked the black wire leading into the 12v transformer (box on left) and connected it to the blue ground wire and saw 16V.

I'm honestly not sure I'm even testing these correctly, but let me know if this gives any clues as to what is wrong with the machine. Is my transformer dead

Here's the "Be darn careful when testing inside a live machine" disclaimer. Maybe start by testing "common blue to body ground" to ensure that the phase isn't reversed. (Not common on German machines, much too common on Italian machines, but always worth knowing for safety's sake.) Be very careful, always be aware whether it's live or not, look at the powercord more than once.


Can you post a photo of the transformer? I don't have one to look at, here...
In my imagination there will be Black and Blue or Brown and Blue wires on one side of the transformer... Black or brown being phase power from the powerboard, and blue being the blue that's common to all components...

The other side will probably be black and white, black and red or a pair of black wires (much thinner) powering the PID.

If you're seeing only 12VAC on the 120VAC Primary side of the transformer, your powerboard is kaput (Your first test re-proved that the powerboard is receiving 120VAC, like the green lamp showed) If it's only giving 12VAC to the transformer, then the powerboard isn't working. I am soon going to run out of ways to say this.
If I'm missing something, please post a picture to explain what I'm wrong about.



Just for reference... Pin FA6 (Lampada) is the source for your transformer's Primary. It should be 120VAC (to any of the blues) if the boiler is done filling.
If FA6 isn't powered, then the powerboard should be trying to fill the boiler and Pompa (FA7) and EV (FA5) should be live (120VAC to Blue Neut.) I hope this makes sense.

Thanks again for the reply- Unfortunately, I'm away from the machine for the weekend, so can't do further testing until Monday. That said, here is photo of the transformer-I ordered a new one- if it's not the problem, at least l have extra parts.

Note: When I was removing the transformer, I noticed that the solder connections for the two thin wires that lead to the PID were loose, and the connector fell completely off the board after I removed it.

When I get home Monday, I will test again according to your suggestions, and if the problem seems to be the power supply I will order a new one and hope for the best!

Thanks for all the help and suggestions and I will keep you posted when I have more information.

Not trying to get in the middle but JR isn't saying the power supply, you know the power supply is good as the green light is on - be is saying the PCB or power control board is bad... just want you to avoid buying unneeded things and wasting time.

Thanks for all the suggestions-

I am going to replace both the power control board (which Clive Coffee calls the Main CPU) and the transformer that powers the PID (because the connector is broken off the original). It's an investment, but replacing both parts is going to cost less than the shipping to a dealer, not to mention the cost of having it diagnosed and repaired.

If the machine doesn't work after replacing the two, then I'm really in trouble...Parts are coming this week, so I'll post if there's success or failure...

It would be interesting to know if the 12v power supply works or not. If it is you could just buy a connector and solder it. If it does not, may be solder another transformer. it's up to you. May be you could check the 12v power supply on the board first, not on the pins of the connector. If the green light turns on, the rest may be ok.

filmdubber wrote:Not trying to get in the middle but JR isn't saying the power supply, you know the power supply is good as the green light is on - be is saying the PCB or power control board is bad... just want you to avoid buying unneeded things and wasting time.

True... But the fact that his transformer is literally falling apart trumps all else...
Still, it seems to me that even with no power to the PID controller, the machine would either be able to run the pump with the lever raised, or be trying to auto-fill. The hydraulic circuit doesn't care about the presence of the PID controller. I feel like at least one important piece of info is still being hidden. That's what happens when you try to fix things you can't see/hear/feel.

I guess that's what makes this place "fun".