photogdave wrote:Thanks for all the suggestions.
Looks like the SSR burned out so I'm going to order a new one and relocate as per the mentioned thread.
I'll post back with results.
Happy New Year!

Just in case you missed it, I think your issue has some other Pro500 owners worried as well .. Does relocated Profitec Pro 500 SSR require thermal paste?

If you order the same part, also get some thermal grease.. look up "arctic silver thermal paste" on amazon.. get as small an amount as possible.. and use very thin layer .. don't worry about paint.. just relocate to back floor, use some paste and bolt down.. and it'll last forever.. (If you know an electronics guy you can probably "borrow a dab"..any good thermal paste will be fine ) The repair guy who did mine actually used some vent holds in the back and placed it over those so he didn't need to drill.. Not what I would have done, but seems to have worked fine for 2+ years.

Well, I'm sad to report the new SSR hasn't fixed the issue.
I've tried swapping between the old and the new and the only difference is the light does not turn on with the old relay, and it does with the new.
Guess I'll have to bite the bullet and pack it off to a repair center.

Hold on. Light does not turn on with old relay, does turn on with new...
So the controller believes it's working, the PID's signal is turning the relay on, but the element's not heating. SO... Either the load side of he relay isn't live (It's like turning a light switch on and off when the breaker in the basement is off, the switch works, but the lights aren't going to come on)...
Or the element is burnt out.

Re-check all thermal safeties first, it's easy and fast. With the machine un-plugged, push the buttons on the safety thermostats. If it clicks when you push it, it was popped and you've reset it.
If the safeties don't click, then (with the machine still un-plugged) re-check the element's resistance. If it's hundreds of ohms or unreadably high, the element's burnt out.

Hi, thanks for replying!
I did check the safeties before plugging in and I have re-tested the element, which is reading 10 ohms. Possible faulty wiring?

Now's the conceptually dangerous. Top off, turn on machine and measure voltage till you find the place it stops. there is supposed to be 117 across the heating element, if not pick a side and go back one junction at a time till you find the problem, if no, do the same to the other side. And be careful, you're playing with 117. Touching it across one hand tingles, between both hands can be a problem so be careful. Or just one at a time, measure across each switching device when you find the one that measures 117, you found the problem. You can do much of it with the power off, but you'll have to test the SSR with the power on.

But don't do this if you don't understand the risks. I do this kind of stuff all the time, but I've played with electricity a lot.

Ira

Thanks for the suggestions. I measured 89V at the heating element. Not sure if that means it's not getting proper voltage or not. The wires to the element and the SSR all appear to be conducting. I can't go any further without taking the whole machine apart so I guess I 'll try and arrange to get it to the closest repair place.

SOLVED! Since I had guests coming from Vancouver I was able to have the machine dropped off at, and picked up from Quality Coffee Systems.
Turns out it was both the heating element and the solid state relay. They replaced the element and upgraded the SSR to a better-than-stock unit. I might still relocate it away from the boiler at a later date.
Although I would have rather fixed it on my own, I'm glad there is an authorized repair shop to be relied upon when need. Quality was great to deal with and they only charged out 1 hour labour.
Thanks to the forum for all the guidance!