Marcelnl wrote:14 AWG for 38A?

It's essentially oven grade wiring

It is important to note that things rated for a certain current does not implicitly mean that they are acceptable to be used for specific codes and standards.

Thus, the wire can handle 38A without melting, but (certain) code states that this same wire cannot be used (likely "used" means installed in walls of buildings/homes) for circuits greater than 15 Amps.

Different codes would govern what can be used in appliances plugged into circuits than would govern how the buildings that contain said appliances are constructed.

Anyway, I would expect the following hierarchy of conservatism in "ratings" of individual components, as it pertains to our hobby.

1. Building code: Most Conservative
2. UL or other commercial/consumer licensing regs: Less Conservative
3. Ratings of individual components: Least Conservative

Not saying this always holds true, but I'd expect it to be the case more often than not.

So, I build a 20A machine, and source internal wires "rated" for 30A or higher to satisfy licensing regs. To get my UL stamp, I am already using parts that have some margin of safety over the rated current draw of my machine.

Then a consumer buys my machine and has a new 20A circuit installed. Now the building code applies and wire "rated" for 50A must be run from the panel to the receptacle in order to meet code for the 20A circuit.

This all makes sense because, while your house won't fall out of the air and kill many people if it catches fire, it is still very bad. If your espresso machine wires turn black and get brittle, hopefully nothing beyond profound disappointment takes place.

Cheers!

- Jake

I noted Ryan's equipment and connector layout. We're using the exact same tools, but I could not help but notice those blue insulated connectors, which look exactly like the HomeDepot connectors. I'd seen "those" blue connectors at HomeDepot and thought I was good to go. Same size, same color. I didn't look at the webpage version here:


Note the insulation temperature rating of 167F. 167C and you're probably ok. I could not find the link to Ryan's connectors to see what their temperature rating is.

roadman wrote: McMaster-Carr has fully insulated nylon plastic terminals with tin plated brass rated to 220°F (104°C). Is this suboptimal? If so, is there a better alternative out there? And if there is a better alternative, could someone post a link to a terminal that would work better?

Based on my experience 220F is lower than I would use. 200C (382F) is the minimum. Would be interested in the temperature specs of Ryan's HomeDepot look-a-like connector.

I completely agree with Jake's summation:

Jake_G wrote: This all makes sense because, while your house won't fall out of the air and kill many people if it catches fire, it is still very bad. If your espresso machine wires turn black and get brittle, hopefully nothing beyond profound disappointment takes place.
- Jake

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Mine are usually good for 105C/221F for an operating temperature. These are just two of many connectors I use (there are different stud sizes)

Most Gardner Bender stuff is Chinese crap. It's a play on Gardner Denver which was a real company making high quality stuff and was replaced in hardware stores with the other. Or that's what I think it was from watching it happen.