Olympia Club Restoration DIY Rebuild

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
Leveraddict

#1: Post by Leveraddict »

I bought this Olympia Club from the bay of evil. The serial number indicates it is a 1971 model. Contacted Olympia directly. They don't have any records as to when they first came out. If anyone knows when they first started making the club that would be great.



It still has original asbestos coating. Unfortunately seals aren't great, leaking steam taps, group leaking. Really nasty black soot coming out of boiler even after several descales.

I thought I will start this thread showing my complete rebuild.

Leveraddict (original poster)

#2: Post by Leveraddict (original poster) »

More Pictures inside the machine. Overall I'm hoping machine is in reasonable shape:

Back: Asbestos coating is in good condition

Pressure gauge on top, site glass bottom

I've removed the pressure stat. The bottom black thing is the thermostat. The wiring is a bit burnt and looks like water has got into it at some stage. It will need to be rewired.

Top: Can you see the black soot in the neck of the boiler

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Leveraddict (original poster)

#3: Post by Leveraddict (original poster) »

Removing the group:

There is not much gap between the hex screws and the group. I had the angle grinder out and chopped the end of my allen key.




The copper tube connecting to the back of the group was really tight and blackened. Had to soak it in penetrating grease overnight. Finally came loose.

Leveraddict (original poster)

#4: Post by Leveraddict (original poster) »

Removing Steam and Water taps:

Steam and Water pipes disconnected: Size 17 spanner needed.

I was worried that I will scratch the chrome taps but undoing the brass nut at the back with a Size 17 spanner and the taps popped came out easily.


Leveraddict (original poster)

#5: Post by Leveraddict (original poster) »

Removal Faceplate:

This machine is so well engineered. Two tiny screws at the bottom hold the faceplate in place. Came off easily.



Leveraddict (original poster)

#6: Post by Leveraddict (original poster) »

Pressure gauge and sight glass removed removal: Again size 17 spanner comes in handy:





Very interesting sight glass it is a block of glass unlike the sight tube used in the cremina.

Leveraddict (original poster)

#7: Post by Leveraddict (original poster) »

Stripping Electrical Components:

One screw mounts the switch to the frame and two screws hold the thermostat to the boiler. All came off together after disconnecting the terminals from the element. I had to cut the power cable. I could not remove it with spade connectors intact.



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Leveraddict (original poster)

#8: Post by Leveraddict (original poster) »

Asbestos Removal:

Big problem the two screws which hold the boiler to the frame could not be loosened despite penetrating spray. I did not want to persuade the screws with a hammer fearing I will disturb the asbestos. I also couldn't take the element plate off without disturbing the fibres. I know it is not ideal but I've had to soak the entire frame, element and boiler in water.



DISCLAIMER: If you don't know what you are doing get someone who is experienced in removal of asbestos. I won't go through exactly how I am doing this but suffice to say I wear face mask, disposable overalls and I remove everything underwater so fibres don't get airbourne. Everything will be safely disposed off at the local tip. Asbestos can kill!!!

The shell and boiler currently soaking overnight in a trough of water. I will update when I have made some more progress.....

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farmroast

#9: Post by farmroast »

Suggest getting the heating element plate off. Soaking the outside of the element doesn't seem like a good idea, water might make it's way in. Use a ohm meter to be sure water hasn't gotten in and to see if the element is still ok.
LMWDP #167 "with coffee we create with wine we celebrate"

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orphanespresso

#10: Post by orphanespresso »

2 bolts holding the boiler on the frame and 8 to remove the boiler end plate with the element? Seems a small bit to do in avoidance of possibly destroying the element....but it IS your machine after all, and you might have a new element for all I know. Don't know if you can get that one in 220v.