Leveraddict and any one in Australia...

http://www.evolutioncables.com.au/?Prod ... one_Cables

They also have all sizes of cable glands / self-restraints and fittings terminals and tools...

Every thing a Coffee machine service person should have. Yes a bit $$$ but quality.

I ended up drilling the powercord hole larger and putting in a cable gland.



I'm happy with the electrical rebuild now. That cord won't go anywhere now.

I've been pulling a few shots with pstat set to 1bar and double basket. I'm getting shot volumes of 40ml. I think the spring has lost a bit of tension as the extraction tends to slow once lever reaches halfway.

The time to pressure/temperature is 11mins. With the sama lusso I get 9mins 54secs. This is with water level at halfway, Heat 1bar, release false pressure. Wait till pressure reaches back to 1bar.

The full shot is definitely overextracted. The volume is too high for such as small quantity of coffee. I experimented by stopping the shot at 20ml and boy was I blown away by the shot quality. With my home roasted peru it really brings out the sweet caramel and chocolate notes. The flavour reminds me of the extractions I get from my Elektra MCAL.

But here is the amazing thing: this thing is incredibly thermostable and no group overheating problems. I pulled 6 shots in succession and have to say none tasted burnt. I suspect the size of the group makes it such a good heat sink. BTW the 3rd shot tasted the best. I could never do that with my elektra and despite the thermosyphon design of my sama lusso I find by the 4th shot I'm getting a hint of burnt flavour.

I think the Olympia Club is definitely underrated and I would have no hesitation paying olympia cremina money for one. It is certainly more exciting than yet another ebay olympia cremina. If you see one of these rare birds I suggest buy it and restore it. You won't be disappointed.

Great thread, restoration and quality report!

Leveraddict wrote:I think the spring has lost a bit of tension as the extraction tends to slow once lever reaches halfway.

Carneiro helped us source some springs for Elektras that have brought some back to life and IMHO improved on the relatively weak factory spring that creates a very layered shot that is low on crema.

Leveraddict wrote:But here is the incredible thing. This thing is incredibly thermostable and no group overheating problems. I pulled 6 shots in succession and have to say none tasted burnt. I suspect the size of the group makes it such a good heat sink. BTW the 3rd shot tasted the best. I could never do that with my elektra and despite the thermosyphon design of my sama lusso I find by the 4th shot I'm getting a hint of burnt flavour.

This changes on the Elektra by simply adding a Teflon gasket between the group and the boiler. Lvx discovered this and DJR helped me modify my Elektra that way. It is now extremely temperature stable. However without heating flushes it takes about 1/2 hour to settle into stable temperature. Before that the pressure runs high and if I want a shot I toggle off the power switch.

where did you locate the tricky Club-specific gaskets or did you cut them yourself ??

the boiler gasket
and the two sight glass seals

Boiler seal came in kit. However the olympia club kit didn't come with a sight glass seal. Mine was in good condition anyway.

You get the following parts: 3x28/1x26/1x20/4x38/1x47/1x103/1x96/2x73/2x72/2x79

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1n_1 ... RIOP4/edit

Migg Frei from Olympia Switzerland. Great person to deal with. I even managed to pick up some new burrs for my vintage olympia moca express grinder that are a direct fit without needing to retap screws. The only thing I had to do was however change the polarity of the grinder so it spun the other direction. He is good for Olympia parts Doug doesn't have. The replacement pstat you see in the picture I got from him is a mater. Unfortunately you can't get the vintage pstat.

and is it my imagination or is there a small seal in between the manometer and the tube to the boiler ??

Do you have a photo of it? My Maximatic has a silicone tube with a metal insert that keeps it open.

here it is:




seems like there's a few seals you cannot easily get to repair an Olympia Club:



-two sight glass seals (inner gasket and outer cushion seal)
-manometer tube to gauge seal
-flat seal inside boiler drain cap
-element plate to boiler gasket (not pictured)

I've now just realized sight glass is an off the shelf part by industrial sight glass manufacturer KLINGER,
but I cannot find this size seals listed in their current catalog, nor can I find a US distributor..
(the size is called 'A0')

manometer seal can probably be substituted with a hardware store o-ring or rubber washer or homemade teflon seal

flat rubber gasket for drain cap should be easy enough to cut...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ancientcyc ... 659274676/