Reassembled the groups. It was hard to get all the hardened coffee gunk off the bells and shower holders.







Next to install the flowmeters and then start with the electrical components.

Well, I had hoped to deal with the exterior panels last, but I forgot that all the switches are mounted in the lower front panel, under the drip tray. So I have to refurbish and mount that panel to get the electrical reconnected. The panel had some damage but I bent it back (hammer, vise) and now it's good. It's back to the buffing wheel!

I was going to suggest labeling everything before you take it apart but you beat me to it. Hopefully you have a good memory.
I don't trust mine so I grab the masking tape and sharpie pen when starting a tear-down
Mark

I did take a lot of photos, thank goodness. Enough to puzzle it out, but not enough to avoid a bit of head scratching.

Some of the terminals are suspect: one of the terminals for the heating element actually fell off its wire end. I have some soldering and crimping to do. I also have to clean the terminals and will use dielectric grease to avoid future corrosion.

The main wires that carry current from the power cord terminal block to the pressurestat and then to the heating element look marginally sized for 30 amps. They should be 10 gauge. I'll check that.

This machine does not have a heating element safety switch. The parts diagram for this machine show a safety switch mounted under the pstat but my machine did not have one nor holes where one was mounted. It is a 1993, maybe the safety switch was incorporated later? Anyhow, maybe I should add one? There are two screws on the boiler flange, I don't know what they are for - perhaps a temperature sensor can be mounted there?

I was also thinking about adding a relay to carry current to the heating element, and a boiler water temperature sensor, to make it easy to add that safety switch and later a PID. What do you think? There isn't a boiler fitting dedicated to temperature sensing, but I guess I could run a thermocouple line through a hole drilled in the water level sensor fitting - or is there an easier way?

I've been reading in this forum about solid state relays and how they are expensive and prone to fail if too close to boiler heat. I'm wondering why not use a mechanical relay? These are used in car engine compartments, are small, tolerate heat, can carry significant amperage, and cost $18 at any autoparts store. I assume you want one that fails in the open position.

The machine has tall legs so there is plenty of room to mount the PID module with display and buttons under the frame.

The wires themselves seem generally okay. I'm going to replace the loom cover, as the existing braided stuff, which I'm guessing is original?, is fraying and messy looking. There is nice black or red braided stuff that is split, fabric, heat-resistant, and self-closing; sold at Summit Racing for auto applications.

I am nervous about the electronic control/button boxes. If they are bad, I'm in some trouble.

I'm also missing the programming key, and don't see the pre-1997 keys for sale on any of the sites I'm looking at. However, I don't see why I can't simply replace the programming lock with a toggle switch and label the positions "program" and "run" in retro font like a Hewlett-Packard calculator display or something.

The clear plastic cover and label for the main power switch are not looking good - cracked and deteriorated. I can probably buy or make replacements.

Slowly coming together. I'm a little skeptical about all that 240v protected from water and fingers by just the lift-off drip tray. Maybe I'm a nannyboy but it feels like there should be a cover that requires tools to remove.

In fact, looking at the parts diagram, at least the current version of the Modern has a bolted-on splashpanel over the electricals and below the drip tray. Maybe mine is missing that panel. I'll have to make one.

Tidier now. Self fusing silicone tape is a wonderful thing.



Waiting on a couple parts then it'll be time to fill the boiler, plug it in, and see what doesn't work.

Well, I did something that was maybe dumb.

I haven't had much time to work on the machine. But I've been searching for a used hot water valve (mine is missing) and can't find any but new valves which are not cheap ($250+). I'm also missing the portafilters. I've also been nervous about what other components may turn out to not work and how much they may cost. I've been buying gaskets, LEDs, vacuum breaker, stuff like that from Stefano and the parts bill has been rising even though I've only bought little stuff. I realized that the cost of further parts may well drive the cost of this refurb to over my budget.

So - I found an Elektra semi-auto Maxi 2G with two Elektra portafilters and an extra pump, for sale. It has been partway restored, the guy - who used to service these machines professionally - told me what still needs to be done. It is actually in much, much better condition than mine was when I started the refurb. Between the two machines I should be able to put together one fully working machine, and have enough spare parts for maintenance or to sell off. I just picked it up in Seattle for $200.

I've also been looking for a grinder. My cheap plastic burr grinder for plunger coffee won't, I think, cut it. The seller had an Elektra grinder and I bought that for $50. Don't know much about the condition except that it is supposed to work. After some reading I think it is a rebadged Macap.

I hope this wasn't too dumb. Maybe I can make back the $250 I just spent by selling off the parts I don't need.

Loaded in the car and ready to drive back to Portlanf.

I lifted my Elektra from the workbench and lowered it to the garage floor. Dang, it is heavy.

Then I hooked up its water line to the garden hose, opened the hose bib, and snugged the leaky fittings until they stopped dripping. All good now.

However, the right group drips through the valve tip and, if I plug the valve tip with my finger, then it drips through the screen.

I assume this means I have a leaky valve? I previously disassembled that valve, verified the plunger (bobbin?) and spring are present, so not sure why it would leak but I can't really tell if seals, etc are good. The left group does not leak; that valve and solenoid are new from Stefano. Hmm, guess I should have replaced both sets of valves and solenoids.

Lifting the machine back up to the workbench was definitely more weightlifting than I've done in a while.

Here is the second Elektra Maxi 2G that I picked up for $200. According to the guy who sold it, he used to repair these professionally, but moved to a different kind of work; this one is complete but has some leaky valves; he didn't have time or interest to finish restoring it.

I figure I can probably harvest from this machine whatever large parts mine turns out to need, and then part it out. This is a 2000 and some of the parts are nicer than the ones on my machine - e.g. it has the current style steam and water valves.

Or - a friend who has been roasting and selling coffee in Hillsboro is going to open a little shop (coffee beans, baked goods); might be interested in serving espresso; and doesn't have much money for equipment. So possibly I will pass this second machine on to him, if there is enough left for him to get it into working condition at a reasonable cost.

It lives!

I took a break from the Elektra during the holidays but got back to it this week. I pulled my garden hose into the garage and connected it to the machine's supply house, then spent an hour chasing down leaks. One group valve had to be replaced, so I ordered a valve and solenoid from Stefano. Okay, no leaks.

Now for electrical. The cord won't reach from the machine to the 240v receptacle in the garage, and I can't move it closer because my wife's pottery kiln is in the way. I wasted an hour driving around in search of a 240v extension cord. Two stores told me there was no such thing because they are illegal and unsafe. I went on Amazon and bought a 15 foot welder's cord for $15. Apparently welders use 240v cords all the time without bursting into flames.

Plugged the machine in, turned on the breaker, turned the machine on, got out the VOM and measured voltage. Yes, there is voltage where there is supposed to be, and none where there is not supposed to be. Hmm, what's that smell. Oh, the heating elements are cooking in a dry boiler. Switched machine off, removed the vacuum valve, poured water through that opening until the boiler was about half full, turned the machine back on.

I had a probe thermometer inserted where the vacuum valve goes, and watched the boiler temperature rise to 190F. Removed the thermometer, re-installed the vacuum valve, and nervously waited for the pstat to click or the pressure release valve to open or for the boiler to explode. In the meantime I tightened some more fittings that were leaking.

Click! The pstat works. Boiler pressure, according to the gauge, was 1.2 bar. My son came into the garage. I explained how full of electricity and pressurized water the machine was and how his dad was risking life and limb to bring espresso to the family. Dear son was unimpressed, until we steamed some milk. "Wow dad we can make good hot chocolate with this!". And off he went, promising to check back later to see if I had died. As he closed the door I screamed the cry of a dying man, and he told me "stop it, dad".

I adjusted the pstat to get the boiler to 1.5 bar. Now, do the groups and keypads work? I installed the backsplash and drip tray, locked a portafilter in the right group, and pushed a button. Holy moly, the pump started and some water came out of the portafilter. At, um, 3 bar on the gauge. Adjust the pump pressure screw. Oooo, 16 bar. Fiddle some more. 8 bar!

So, here's where we are.
1. Both keypads seem to work, on a gross level. Push botton, water comes out under pressure, water stops. Big relief.
2. The amount of water seems odd, the "big single shot" button delivers less water than the "little single shot" button, so I'll have to investigate further. Maybe they were programmed weird. I don't have the programming key but will simply insert a switch where the lock is and label the positions "program" and "brew". The "manual brew" button works, anyway.
3. Both groups deliver water at 8 bar, with no dripping other than a few drops from the valve drain at the end of the shot. Either my portafilter lugs are worn or my group bell flanges are worn, because the portafilter doesn't lock in tightly. I will get the thicker o-rings from Stefano.
4. The water as it exits the portafilter seems not hot enough - a thermometer in the stream reads only about 175F. But maybe the group needs to heat up? Not sure what's going on here.
5. The steam wands work, though one drips just a little so I'll rebuild the valves. Nice four hole tips. I'm eventually going to take the valves from the "parts machine" as they are newer and nicer.
6. There seems to be a little leak at the pump, haven't tracked that down yet. And one other very small leak from a fitting that is on the underside of the boiler and hard to get to. I'll get that one when the power isn't on.
7. I cannot tell if the autofill works. There is no voltage at the lead that clips to the water level sensor, I'm not sure if there is supposed to be? But the boiler water level is probably up to the water level probe tip. I think I'm going to figure out how to install a boiler drain valve, by the way. This is a heat exchanger machine and it will be hard to maintain the boiler without an easy way to drain it.
8. The stainless steel exterior panels still need to be mirror polished. I am afraid the "Elektra" logo on the upper faceplate is going to be polished off, as I can't get that part of the panel shiny otherwise. My daughter has access to a laser engraver at school so if I can make a file with that logo in the right font, she can engrave it for me right into the steel.
9. The exterior end panels need to be re-painted. Or wrapped with thin copper sheet.
10. The machine is "on" in my garage. I'll leave it running all evening to see if anything bad happens. I might go out there and try to pull a shot. Right now I'm cold - unheated garage - so I'm taking a break.